Nosler

British Columbia Stone Sheep Hunt

Thu, 16 Jun 2011 11:57:59 -0400

Written By: James Brion

Hunt Dates: July 28th – July 31st, 2010
Species: Stone Sheep

Just back at the beautiful Stone Mountain Ranch Lodge near Toad River, British Columbia after one of the most amazing hunts of my life. They say that luck is when preparedness meets opportunity. Well, we were prepared and the opportunity presented.

We were on Leif’s first Stone Sheep hunt of the season which meant hot weather, sheep up high and rams in bachelor groups.

The hunt started with the standard precarious 20 mile horseback ride to base camp. From there we scouted several drainage’s looking for a good stone ram. Horseback rides on scouting days were from 8 to 12 miles round-trip per day. On the first glassing stop of our first scouting day, a cow and calf moose ran past us in the creek bottom at a distance of 50 yards. Behind the pair; a large boar grizzly in hot pursuit. As the bear ran across in front of us, he finally spotted us, turned and took a few strides in our direction. With guns at ready, we yelled him down and he went on his way. A reminder that we were in one of North Americas most wild and unpredictable places.

On the second scouting day, we found the rams we wanted to target. A dozen stone rams in a bachelor group holed up in one of the most beautiful alpine valleys I’ve had the pleasure of being in. About 20 ewes and lambs also grazed on the lush green side-hills below the rocks. There were three shooters in the bunch, an old, dark horned broomed ram, a super wide and long horned ram and another that had it all, good mass, good length, lamb tips tipping out and a dark charcoal body—a classic stone.

So we packed up four horses with gear and moved to a spike camp 3 miles below the rams in the valley floor. We would live with the sheep, keeping eyes on them at distance until the opening day.

Opening morning started with rain, but cleared up just in time for us to locate the sheep again and begin our two mile stalk. At one point, my guide Derrick Stevens said that there was no way to approach the sheep without being exposed. The lambs and ewes bedded out of sight, but the old rams bedded with a commanding view of their domain. At 800 yards, we were forced to crawl, fully exposed for about 100 yards. Derrick said, “James, the only thing I know to do is get on our hands and knees, and one at a time crawl slowly at an angle away from the sheep until we get to the next cover. If they forgive us of that, we’ll scramble up a wash and peek over at 250 yards. If not….well we’ll have 13 more hunting days to make up for our sins”.

It appeared that those opening day rams had allowed us this break that we needed. They were all still comfortably bedded when we crawled out of their sight. Now, however, we needed to scramble up a wash with a mountain goat bedded at the top. Would he spook and wreck our day? Also, there were so many sheep in the valley that we had no idea what we might bump along the way. What’s more, we had watched these sheep two days in a row and could not figure out where the two largest rams were bedding. Late in the evening they would simply disappear.

When Derrick finally peeked over the ridge at the head of the wash he gave me the signal that he had his eyes on the rams. I bellied up beside him and got the T/C Icon into position. While Derrick was sizing up the four rams bedded below us in the talus slope, I looked straight across the next wash and saw the two large rams. We were fortunate to peek up straight away from the bedding location that we were unable to find the previous two days! The largest ram in the bunch was the closest of the three shooter rams. I settled in, took a few breaths and tried to put out of my mind that I was soon to be pulling the trigger on an 8 year old, full curl plus stone ram; arguably North America’s premier big game animal.

The ram was bedded so we waited 20 minutes for him to present a good shot. Finally he stood up, walked a few steps and looked intently in our direction. I squeezed the trigger and even before I could recover from the recoil, I was comforted by that fateful Accubond whomp. I’d heard it enough by now to know it was a solid hit. “Give him another one” said Derrick, but before I could feed the Icon another, the ram tipped over, dropped off his ledge, rolled about 50 feet and was done.

The longest trophy photo session of my life ensued, followed by a two mile pack off the mountain. I say sheep are not hunted, they are accomplished, and generally not by individuals, but by a team. Everyone on the team had done their job and we had our beautiful stone ram……..but it wasn’t over yet.

We spent the night at spike camp then pointed the horses toward base camp the following day. As we neared base camp a lone wolf sounded off across the valley. Thankfully when I booked this hunt, Leif had convinced me to spend the 60 dollars….. just in case. We tied up the stock, set up on the creek bank and Derrick gave a blow on his predator call. The big black wolf appeared on the green side hill at a distance of 338 yards. At 347 yards, I was lined up on the wolf. My first shot struck hard but the wolf righted itself and headed down the steep slope. My second shot at the moving wolf was a bit high, but number three put him down instantly. Derrick and I looked at each other in utter amazement for just a moment knowing that we had just done one of those things that just never happens…….. two of the most difficult of the North American 29 big game species in less than 24 hours!

My Stone Mountain Adventure will go down as “The Perfect Hunt”, where preparedness met opportunity.

I will be back with Stone Mountain Safaris Next year in search of one of their Giant Canadian Moose.

-James Brion
Magnum Hunt Club

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/05/20/british-columbia-stone-sheep-hunt/

A 1911 Saved My Life!

Thu, 09 Jun 2011 13:33:48 -0400

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the U.S. Army’s adoption of John M. Browning’s model 1911 pistol. The 1911 pistol is more popular today than it has ever been with one version or another being made by almost all of the major handgun manufacturers in the United States and abroad. Those who have been taken in by the allure and mystique of the legendary 1911 love it with ardent fervor. The tales of its effectiveness both in battle and at home are innumerable. Over the last century the 1911 has proven beyond a doubt that when the chips are down, anyone who stands their ground with a 1911 in hand stands a better chance of survival than if they were without it.

A 1911 Saved My Life!
By Mason Payer

This story is a legend in my family told to me and my brother, my cousins, my mother, and my uncles throughout our lives by my grandfather Al. While the minor details of the story have become cloudy over time, the facts are true. When my grandfather was 17 he killed a charging grizzly bear in Colorado with a 1911. He certainly didn’t set out that day to kill a grizzly bear with a pistol and this story isn’t intended as a testament to the 1911’s suitability for defense against a grizzly bear. I truly believe however, that had he not been in possession of the pistol that day and had he not used it when he had the chance, three subsequent generations of my family may not be here today.

Albert Lupien was born in Chicago, Illinois in 1917. By 1934, Grandpa was 17 and the country was deep in the Great Depression. Desiring a paying job and some adventure, he signed on as a ranch hand at a cattle ranch in Gunnison, Colorado. At this point in his life he had no experience with ranch work or the wilderness, so when he headed out West for a year, he was totally green to the ways of wild Colorado.

Shortly after arriving at the ranch, Grandpa discovered that though he wasn’t very good at working cattle, he was a pretty good shot with a rifle. One of the jobs that he was assigned to do was go out with a .22 and hunt grouse for the pot. The manager of the ranch was a stern old cowboy, and before each of Grandpa’s meat hunting trips the boss would issue him five .22 cartridges with the expectation that he would return with five grouse. He was instructed to only shoot the grouse through the head so as not to waste any meat. Once, he was fortunate enough to kill two grouse with one shot by waiting patiently for them to line up one behind the other. When he returned to the bunkhouse with five grouse and a live .22 shell left over, the boss didn’t believe what he had done.

Somehow, Grandpa ended up in possession of an Army issue 1911 pistol and web holster. Recollections of its source vary amongst family members. Some remember it being loaned to him by a friend in Chicago. Others remember it being loaned to him by a guest of the ranch who was there deer hunting. I just remember it being loaned to him by someone at the ranch who felt he should have it for protection while out grouse hunting. I clearly remember my Grandpa saying that he was so skinny; the web belt wrapped around his waist twice. Whomever the pistol came from is unimportant, what was important was that he had it on him that fateful day and he had the fortitude to use it when he had the chance.

The day of the grizzly started like any other, and Grandpa went out to collect some grouse for the pot. Hearing rustling in a thicket of bushes, he quietly dismounted his cow pony and crept up to the bushes, thinking he was getting the drop on a covey of grouse. When he peered into the brush, he was surprised to find himself looking at a grizzly bear feeding on berries. Being young, somewhat foolish, and not knowing any better, Grandpa took careful aim at the bear’s head, holding the front sight of his .22 squarely between the bear’s eyes! At the shot, he fully expected the bruin to fall dead, but instead it let out a roar of rage and began swatting at its face as though stung by a bee. Not having planned for this reaction, Grandpa quickly turned and began to run to his horse only to see it headed back to the barn at top speed.

Not knowing what else to do, Grandpa began to run all the while hearing the enraged grizzly rapidly gaining on him. As he ran, he felt a strange sensation of a heavy weight flapping against his leg. The pistol! Knowing it was his only hope; he drew the heavy automatic, and began to fire wildly over his shoulder while running. Firing several times with no result, he realized he was going to have to make his shots count. Running past a small tree, he turned and braced the pistol against the tree continuing to fire upon the rapidly closing bear. As the grizzly closed upon him with its mouth wide open ready to deliver a crushing bite, Grandpa fired his last round which entered the bear’s open mouth breaking his spine and dropping him dead at Grandpa’s feet.

When his horse showed up back at the ranch without him, the boss began to worry about Grandpa. Once they found him headed back on foot, everyone was relieved that he was alive, but extremely displeased to hear that he had tangled with a grizzly bear. Though he came out unscathed, things might have ended very differently had Grandpa not had the 1911 that day. He ended up selling the bear hide to guests of the ranch, and the pistol was returned to its owner, so no artifacts of the legend remain save for the memories of our Grandfather telling us the story of the day a 1911 saved his life.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/05/23/a-1911-saved-my-life/

Cooking with Venison

Wed, 01 Jun 2011 12:55:00 -0400

Cooking with venison really isn’t much different than cooking any type of meat, but there are a few guidelines to follow that will increase your enjoyment of venison. The main difference between venison and beef is that venison is very lean. In other words, it contains very little fat. For this reason, venison is much healthier than beef, but it does somewhat affect how you cook it. The advantages of venison are the fact that it is organic, free-range, low-fat, grass-fed, hormone and antibiotic free. Venison is also much higher in omega-3 than typical beef. Whenever you cook venison in a pan, you will need to use some sort of oil such as butter, olive oil, bacon grease or cooking spray to prevent it from sticking. You will notice that when you do cook venison, very little fat renders out of the meat. That is why you need to oil the pan to prevent the venison from sticking. For the same reason, you want to cook venison faster than beef to prevent it from drying out. If you are going to cook venison steaks, searing fast over medium-high to high heat will give the best results. Also, venison is typically at its best when cooked medium-rare to rare. Cooking for too long will quickly dry venison out and make it tough. The same rules apply for grilling venison. Rub the meat lightly with olive oil before cooking and cook quickly over high heat. Venison is healthy and delicious when prepared properly so learn the little differences between venison and beef so that you can enjoy your harvest at the table.

Ground venison is great in any dish you would cook with ground beef. Just remember the lower fat content. If you are browning ground venison in a skillet, always add a little olive oil to make up for the lack of fat in the meat. Ground venison makes great tacos, chili, and spaghetti sauce. The only recipe where working with ground venison is a little more challenging is hamburgers. Typical beef hamburgers hold their shape well as the fat content in the beef helps to “glue” the burgers together. The fat is also what gives a beef burger its delicious juiciness. To make a venison burger that tastes, and more importantly, feels like a beef burger, you will have to add in some type of fat to the ground venison. Commercial meat cutters usually will ask if you want beef fat added to your ground venison. If you want your ground venison to cook more like beef, having the butcher add beef fat is the easiest way to go. If you want to preserve the organic nature of your venison, there is another way to make a decent burger. If you simply try to make patties out of straight deer burger, they will be very crumbly and turn out dry and tough. To make burgers that will stick together well and won’t dry out, add olive oil and an egg to the meat before making patties. As you are mixing up the meat to make patties, simply add one egg and one or two tablespoons of olive oil. The egg and the oil will help to bind the meat together into a patty. Also, the oil will help to prevent the patties from sticking as well as adding a little bit of “juiciness” to the burger.

Venison, if taken care of properly and cooled down quickly, shouldn’t have a strong “gamey” flavor. It is more flavorful than store bought beef, but this flavor should be hearty and meaty, not bad. Sometimes, due to weather conditions after the kill, the deer being in the rut, or other factors, venison can come out with a strong “gamey” flavor. Some people enjoy this strong flavor, but most will find it undesirable. If you do have some “gamey venison, it is best to use it in otherwise heavily seasoned or spicy dishes to help mask the taste. Things such as chili and spaghetti sauce have a strong flavor that helps to cover up any unpleasant taste in the meat. If you do end up with gamey meat, think about your meat care and recovery in the field and see if there is anywhere you might improve next time to avoid strong tasting venison.

Backstrap Butterfly steaks, baked potatoes, and Broccoli

Several Venison Backstrap Butterfly steaks (See deer processing article for tips on how to cut butterfly steaks, or use any steak you have. Backstrap medallions work great too.)
Large Baking Potatoes (1 per person)
1 Head Broccoli
6 strips of Bacon
Sour Cream
Butter
Chives

Begin by pre-heating oven to 375. Wash potatoes and bake on middle oven rack until soft. Approx. 1.5 hrs. Dice bacon and cook in heavy cast iron skillet until crisp. Remove bacon and drain on paper towels. Do not discard bacon grease. Leave bacon grease in pan and remove from heat. Wash and trim broccoli, cut crown into smaller pieces. When potatoes are soft, steam broccoli for several minutes in steamer just until soft. As broccoli is steaming, re-heat bacon grease in skillet over medium heat. Heat until grease is hot, but not smoking. Once bacon grease is hot, place steaks in skillet to quickly fry. Fry for just a few minutes per side depending on the thickness of the steaks and your desired level of doneness. Medium rare to rare is definitely preferable unless you really like your meat well-done. Remove potatoes and broccoli while steaks rest for several minutes. Then serve with bacon, sour cream, chives, and butter for potato toppings.

Venison Spaghetti Sauce

1 pound ground venison
2 or 3 cloves garlic
1 bell pepper (green or red doesn’t matter)
1 can tomato sauce
1 can diced tomatoes
Olive oil
Italian seasoning
Salt and Pepper
Sautee crushed garlic in 2 tsp. Olive oil in pan over medium heat. Add ground venison and cook until browned. While venison is browning, add chopped pepper and allow pepper to sweat. Once meat is browned and pepper has softened slightly, add tomatoes, tomato sauce, Italian seasoning and Salt and Pepper to taste. Heat to a low simmer, then reduce heat to maintain simmer. Sauce is ready to eat as soon as it is heated through, but simmering for an hour or more really lets the flavors meld and creates a heartier sauce. Serve over noodles with a Caesar salad and garlic bread. This sauce can be made ahead of time and frozen in large zip-lock bags for quick meals at home, or in camp.

Venison Fajitas

1 package Venison cut into thin strips several inches long.
One half onion
1 bell pepper
1 pkg. Fajita seasoning
Olive oil

If you don’t have packages of venison specifically set aside for fajitas or stew, you can slice up steaks. Slice pepper lengthwise to make long thin strips, being sure to remove seeds and ribs from pepper. Also, slice onion lengthwise to yield strips approximately the same size as pepper strips. Heat 1 tablespoon Olive oil in heavy cast iron skillet over medium heat. Get the pan nice and hot so that the venison and vegetables will cook quickly. Once pan is hot, sauté meat, pepper, and onion stirring frequently. Once vegetables begin to soften and meat is nicely browned, mix up and add fajita seasoning according to manufacturers directions. Simmer meat and vegetables in fajita sauce until sauce thickens. Serve with warm tortillas, sour cream, guacamole, lime wedges, salsa and hot sauce.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/cooking-with-venison/

Processing your Deer

Thu, 26 May 2011 12:23:00 -0400

Choosing to butcher and process your own deer gives you complete control over the handling of your venison while saving you money over the long run. Processing your own also guarantees that you will be getting your own deer back. Meat processors do their best to keep the meat from individual animals separate, but it is simply a matter of efficiency that meat from several animals will be mixed together when it is ground. A butcher simply can’t afford to take the time to clean his equipment between grinding each deer, so your ground meat will undoubtedly contain some of one or more other deer as well. While this isn’t a major concern, you have know way of knowing if the other guy was as careful as you were with his meat care. Doing your own also gives you complete control over portion size, and how you want your animal cut. Maybe you want it all ground into sausage and burger, maybe you want all steaks. Butchers are usually willing to cut any way you request, but doing it yourself, you can be sure you get what you want. Another reason to cut your own is that you don’t have to wait to get your meat back from the processor. As soon as you get home and get unpacked, you cut up your deer, wrap it and put it away in the freezer. Perhaps the best reason to process your own is purely economical. Having game commercially processed is expensive and for the cost of having a few deer commercially processed, you can buy your own tools and equipment that will likely last you for life. Except for a few wrapping supplies, buying the tools you need to process your own deer is a one time investment so after the first few deer, you are basically processing your own for free. The savings get even better and the work easier, if you pool resources with hunting partners and share both the cost of equipment and labor. Just as with reloading, the more you use your tools, the cheaper they get. Fortunately, the tools needed for processing game aren’t expensive to begin with except for an electric grinder which will cost several hundred dollars.

The biggest investment required for processing your own game is an electric grinder. There is a large quantity of meat on a deer that is really only suitable for grinding unless you want to eat a lot of stew. A good electric grinder allows you to grind this meat into burger quickly and easily. A grinder will also make it possible for you to make your own sausage and summer sausage if you are so inclined. After your knife, your grinder will be your most used processing tool. As with all hunting gear, get the biggest, best grinder you can afford keeping in mind that it is likely a one time purchase. Grinders come in a wide range of sizes and prices. Price increases dramatically as capacity and motor size go up, so be sure to purchase the right size grinder for the amount of meat you anticipate grinding. The one half and one third horsepower size grinders are probably perfect for most hunters, but if you plan on doing several deer at a time or can afford a larger grinder, you may want to splurge and get a larger model. If you do get a large model it is unlikely that you will be disappointed because your grinder is too powerful. You don’t need a commercial size grinder, but it should definitely be an all stainless, commercial grade model. The grinder will account for the vast majority of your initial investment, so don’t skimp and wind up wishing you had bought a better one. If you don’t want to buy a grinder or don’t want to bother with grinding your own meat, you can always cut and wrap all the steaks and roasts yourself and take the rest to a processor to be ground. This won’t really save you any money, but it is an option.

Tools

To process your own deer you will need:

• An electric grinder ( The grinders sold by Cabela’s and Lem Products are excellent.)
• 1 or more good boning knives (A good boning knife is an absolute necessity for processing your own deer. Every piece of meat you eat will have been cut with your boning knife. If you own a kitchen knife set, you probably already have a Boning knife. It is the one that looks like a little fillet knife. A high quality, commercial grade boning knife costs around $15, so there is no reason not to have one or two. The Victorinox 5 inch, semi-stiff, curved blade, boning knife with Fibrox handle is an excellent boning knife, and all you really need to completely process any game.)
• A knife sharpener
• Several Cutting boards
• A large open area to work such as a countertop or table (Pick someplace clean that is also easy to clean when you are done. Seek spousal approval beforehand and clean up really well afterwards!)
• Several large plastic tubs to contain and move meat
• Butcher paper or Vacuum sealer
• Tape for sealing packages (if using paper)
• Plastic wrap
• It helps to have some room in your refrigerator or some other cold area to store meat while you are working on various different pieces of the deer

Processing your own deer is just that, a process, it is the process of breaking down a whole deer into smaller and smaller pieces until you are left with edible portions of meat. Before you begin, you should spend some time thinking about what recipes you and your family like to cook and eat. Since you are cutting your own deer for your consumption it only makes since to process it into cuts of meat that you want to consume. If you want to grind your whole deer into burger and sausage, by all means do so. Grinding the whole thing will save some work, but you will miss out on some really good steaks. Venison is very versatile, so don’t think you have to be constrained to specific venison recipes. Just about any recipe that your family now enjoys can be made with venison or any other game meat. A good starting point is to cut into steaks as many of the large pieces as possible and grind the rest for burger or sausage. Roasts don’t usually turn out well due to the leanness of venison, so you may choose to cut them into steaks instead. However you choose to cut up your deer, give yourself a little variety so you don’t get tired of eating one cut of meat.

Venison is naturally very lean and you will be trimming away any visible fat, so ground venison is quite a bit different than ground beef. Ground venison is difficult to form into patties due to the lack of fat which acts as a binder in beef hamburger patties. There are two ways to get around this. The most common method is to purchase beef suet and grind it along with the venison thereby mixing them together. Commercial processors do this and will ask how much fat you want added to your burger. Likewise for sausage, but pork fat is added instead of beef. You may be able to find beef suet at a grocery store by asking the butcher, or you should be able to get it from a local meat processor. If you wish to retain the purity and organic nature of your venison, you can add olive oil and or an egg to the meat before you make patties as these will help hold the meat together. Just be aware that unless you add beef fat, a venison burger will never be as juicy as your typical beef burger.

If you already boned out or quartered your deer in the field, you have a head start on processing. If not, you will need to begin by removing the four quarters. To remove the front shoulders, pull the leg away from the midline of the body and begin cutting in the armpit area cutting along the ribcage towards the spine. Continue to pull the leg away as you work which will make it easier to see exactly where you need to make your cuts, there is no joint attaching the shoulder to the chest, so the shoulder is very easy to remove. Remove both front shoulders and set them aside someplace clean and cool. Now, remove both hindquarters in a similar fashion beginning your cut along the pelvis at the midline of the body directly between the legs. Cut in towards the center of the carcass until your knife finds the pelvic bone, then work your way along the pelvis, cutting as you go. Eventually you will get to the hip joint which is a cup and ball type joint. Prying the leg away from the body perpendicular to the long axis of the carcass will make removing the hindquarter easier and you will hear the joint “pop” when you get close to it. Cut between the cup and ball which are the pelvis and the head of the femur and continue cutting up towards the spine until the hindquarter is free. Repeat this process on the other hindquarter.

Now that you have the four quarters removed, it is time to remove the backstraps, tenderloins, rump roasts and neck meat.

Backstraps

The backstraps are the long muscles that lie along the back on either side of the spine. These are two of the best pieces of meat on a deer and should be removed carefully so as not to waste any. The backstraps lie in an open “v” formed by the ribs and the spinous processes of the vertebrae. The backstrap is one long strip of meat about the size of your arm that runs from the top of the shoulder along the spine to the pelvis. To remove the backstrap, first locate the spin by feeling for bony bumps along the midline of the back. Make an incision the length of the backstrap running your knife along the spinous processes directly towards the center of the carcass. Cut inwards until you feel your knife blade contact the ribs. Use your fingers to pull out and away to make it easier to complete the cut. Once this incision is complete, you can either continue the cut outwards along the ribs beneath the backstrap, or come in from the side working your knife along the ribs toward the spine. Once the backstrap is free along its length, cut through it at its attachment points at the pelvis and shoulder. Repeat with the other backstrap on the other side of the spine. Once you have the backstraps removed, place them in the refrigerator until you are ready to trim them.

Tenderloins
The tenderloins are small cylindrical muscles that lie along the spine on the inside of the body cavity. They run from the ribs to the pelvis. They are fairly lightly attached, so you can usually separate them along their length with your fingers and then cut them free at either end. Remove both tenderloins and place them with the backstraps in the refrigerator. The tenderloins are the most tender and delicious pieces of meat on a deer and should be cooked whole on the grill then sliced across the grain.

Rump Roasts
The rump roasts are the two large pieces of meat that lay on the top of the pelvis. Sometimes the rump roasts will be cut off along with the hindquarters depending on where you make your cuts. If they are still on the pelvis, cut them off similar to the method used for removing the backstrap except you are removing the meat from the pelvis not the spine. Rump roasts can be cooked as a roast, cut into steaks, or ground into burger.

Neck meat
The meat on the neck is typically ground up or made into stew meat, so you need not be too precise in removing it. Simply run your knife along the neck vertebrae and remove as much meat as you can.

Once you have finished removing these portions, you have removed most of the edible meat on a deer. Now simply go over the carcass removing any more bits of meat that you can grind. There is quite a bit of meat on the ribs that can be removed by simply running your knife along each rib removing the meat from in between. While you should remove as much meat as possible, know that grinding something up doesn’t magically turn it into something edible. You don’t want any fat, bone, ligaments, tendons, or connective tissue in your ground meat, so unless it is actual red muscle, don’t cut it off to grind. Pick one of your plastic tubs to be the grind tub and place all the meat that you plan to grind in it.

You now have all the meat off of the carcass and can dispose of the carcass. Now that you have the whole deer broken down into manageable pieces, the next step is to bone the quarters meaning remove the meat off of the bone. As you are working on your deer, always work with the idea of keeping the pieces as big as possible until it comes time to cut steaks and grind meat. In other words, what you don’t want is to start cutting randomly and end up with a bunch of little bits of meat that your only option is to grind. Work along the natural seams between muscles cutting only the connective tissue to separate out the major muscles. Also realize that there are only so many pieces of a deer big enough to yield steaks, and the rest can be cut up for either jerky, stew, stir fry, and fajitas or ground into burger. The first time seems a little daunting, as it is hard to know where to begin. If you can, get a friend with more experience to help, otherwise just start cutting and learn as you go. The only real mistake you can make is to cut up a piece of meat that could have been used as a steak, but you really haven’t lost anything as you will just end up with some very nice ground venison.

In the field, you don’t want to get your meat wet, but it is nice to give everything a quick rinse in cold water to get rid of any hair, dirt, or excess blood that remains on the meat. After a quick rinse pat everything dry with paper towels.

To remove the leg bones from the four quarters, simply begin separating the muscles from bone by running the blade of your knife along the bone while peeling the muscles away. The goal is to keep all the muscles attached to one another while removing the bone without leaving too much meat attached to it. It is particularly tricky to remove the meat from the scapula, so go slow and be sure to press the side of your knife blade hard against the bone. Boning out the quarters is definitely the part of processing that requires the most skill. It isn’t easy, but you will get better with practice. Once you have the bones removed, you will be able to start separating the individual muscles and creating actual table-ready cuts of meat.

Trimming
Much of your time spent processing your deer will be spent trimming. Trimming is the removal of all fat, sinew, ligaments, tendons, and connective tissue from the meat. As you work on your deer, you will notice that the meat doesn’t really look like the meat you get from the grocery store. Unlike the store-bought beef, your venison has layers of blue and white stuff on it and sometimes a layer of film similar to plastic wrap. That is all the connective tissue that you need to trim off so that the meat will be edible. The connective tissue isn’t harmful in any way; it is just extremely tough and impossible to chew. To get your venison to look like a steak from the store, you have to spend some time trimming it. Spending the extra time to trim properly will result in much better results at the table. Don’t be conservative with your trimming either, trim off and discard anything that isn’t dark red muscle. A deer will yield somewhere around half of a paper grocery bag full of trimmings. You aren’t wasting anything by trimming; rather you are improving the palatability of the pieces being trimmed. Deer fat turns rancid very quickly, so be sure to trim off and throw away any fat, don’t throw it into the grind pile. Also, don’t be tempted to grind up meat with a bunch of connective tissue on it. It will still be tough and unpleasant after being ground and it may clog up your grinder. A little bit is all right, especially on the meat from the lower legs, but really try to trim off as much as possible.

To trim off connective tissue or “silver skin” as it is sometimes called, lay the piece of meat out on your cutting board as flat as possible. Use your hand to press down and lightly smash flat the meat a little bit with the tissue to be trimmed off facing up. Slide your knife blade underneath the tissue starting by stabbing the point in between the muscle and connective tissue. Slide the knife blade beneath as much of the tissue as possible and then slice sideways separating the tissue from the muscle. Start in the middle of the tissue to make it easier to insert the knife. Some muscle will remain attached to the connective tissue, but that is unavoidable. You can decrease the amount of meat lost by angling your knife blade slightly up towards the connective tissue away from the meat. It is nearly impossible to get all the tissue off in one piece, so just keep repeating the process until you have removed all of the connective tissue from a piece of meat. It is also easy to use your fingers to tear away some of the film-like fascia that is wrapped around some of the muscles.

To break down the quarters after they have been de-boned, start by separating the individual muscles along their natural seams. As you do this, sort the meat into several piles or tubs. Make one tub for meat that is ready for the grinder, another tub for meat that needs further trimming, and one tub for large pieces that you plan to cut into steaks. Just keep separating the various muscles until you have all of the shoulders and hindquarters broken down into manageable pieces.

Cutting Steaks

Once you have everything broken down it is time to trim and cut steaks. The majority of your steaks will come from the backstraps and the top portions of the hindquarters. When you are cutting steaks, first be sure that you have completely trimmed the piece that you intend to cut. When you cut your steaks, cut across the grain of the muscle. When you look closely at a piece of meat you will be able to see the muscle fibers running the length of the muscle. You want to make your cuts perpendicular to or across the muscle fibers. This will result in much more tender steaks. Cut the steaks to whatever thickness you prefer and throw any scrap pieces in the grind tub. The individual pieces of meat aren’t very big on a deer, so to get good sized steaks it is helpful to know how to cut a butterfly steak. To cut a butterfly steak, first begin with a relatively square cut on the end of a piece of meat. Cut the steak to your desired thickness across the grain, but stop cutting just short of cutting completely through. The goal is to make one steak out of two pieces of meat connected by a thin strip in the middle. Next, cut another steak of the same thickness, cutting all the way through this time. You should be left with two steaks still joined together that when laid flat somewhat resemble a butterfly’s wings. Lay the steak out and smash it flat a little with your hand. Continue cutting as many steaks as possible out of each piece of meat. The backstrap in particular makes excellent butterfly steaks.

As you cut your steaks, you will end up with a variety of odd sized pieces that aren’t big enough to use as steaks. You have two options with these, you can either throw them in to be ground, or you can set them aside to package separately for use in stew, fajitas, stroganoff, or stir-fry.

Grinding

It works best to save the grinding for last as that way you use up all the odds and ends from all the cuts of meat. When separating out meat for grinding, you still have to trim off fat and sinew. A good rule of thumb to remember is: If you wouldn’t want to eat it attached to your steak, you don’t want it in your hamburger either. Depending on the size and horsepower of your grinder, you will need to cut the meat to be ground into manageable size pieces. Long strips grind the easiest, but really any piece small enough to fit into your grinder will be fine. If you are having to stuff the meat into the grinder, you need to cut smaller pieces. Meat is easier to grind if it is really cold, almost to the point of being frozen, so set your grind tub in the refrigerator or freezer and let it chill while you get your grinder set up.

The best ground meat is ground twice, first with a coarse grinding plate, and then with a finer one. Your grinder probably came with both, but if not be sure to get whichever one you don’t have. Double grinding is easier and gives the finished product a nicer texture. You will need at least two tubs for grinding, one to hold the meat to be ground and one to grind into. Before you start, and periodically during the process, spray the grinder neck with some Pam or other cooking spray to help everything slide through easily. Once you have finished grinding up all your meat, you are almost done processing your venison. All that is left is to package, label, and freeze the meat.

Packaging

There are a few different ways to package your venison. Vacuum sealers are popular and some people swear by them. Done improperly, vacuum packaged meat can quickly get freezer burned. The most fool proof way to package your venison is to do it the same way commercial meat processors do and that is to double wrap the meat, first in plastic, then in butcher paper. Meat packaged this way will not freezer burn and will last in the freezer for years. You can get big rolls of both plastic wrap and butcher paper at Costco that will last for many, many deer. Butcher paper wrapped packages are also easy to label with a Sharpie marker or other felt tipped pen. It helps to get set up by cutting a bunch of squares of paper off the roll before you begin.

When you package your venison, make packages that contain the right amount of meat to make one meal for your family. By the time you get to packaging, you will want to be done with the whole process, but don’t be tempted to just make a few big packages as you will end up wasting a lot of meat when you do thaw it out. Take the extra time to make small packages that fit the recipes you will be preparing.

To make the packages, start by assembling the right amount of meat and wrap it in a piece of plastic wrap. Next, wrap this in a piece of butcher paper, starting at the corner of the paper, folding it over the meat twice, fold in the sides, then roll it up and seal it with a piece of masking tape. Be sure to label the packages clearly and specifically. Include the species of game, cut of meat, and year packaged i.e. Deer Backstraps, 2011. If you don’t label the packages, you will soon forget what they contain and the mystery packages in the freezer never get eaten.

Once you have all of your meat wrapped, labeled, and in the freezer, you are done. All that is left is to clean up and dispose of all the bones and trimmings. If it is several days before your regular trash pick up, place all of the bones and trimmings in a bag in the freezer so they don’t begin to smell. Just be sure to remember to throw them out on trash day. To really enjoy the best, freshest venison, set aside the tenderloins or some backstrap to eat in the next few days without ever freezing it. This is likely the freshest meat you will ever eat and it is delicious. Once you have a deer or two under your belt, it will all make much more sense and feel a whole lot easier. Processing a deer really isn’t difficult; it just takes a little know-how and several hours of hard work.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/processing-your-deer/

Caping a Buck

Wed, 25 May 2011 13:00:00 -0400

If you are going to have your buck head mounted, you must skin it slightly differently than you normally would. For head mounting, the skin on the neck, chest, shoulders, and head must be removed very carefully working from the back of the neck rather than the front. To make a head mount, a Taxidermist stretches a cape over a plastic or foam form and sews it together along the back of the neck. The term “cape” refers to the skin of the deer from the face all the way to an imaginary point directly behind the shoulders. “Caping” is the act of carefully removing the skin from this portion of the body.

Your taxidermist can only work with what you provide him, so be very generous with the amount of skin you include in the cape. The way to do this is to begin caping well behind the shoulders. The taxidermist can always trim off any extra that he doesn’t need, but he can’t make it grow if you don’t give him enough. Begin by making an incision all the way around the deer’s chest. Cut all the way through the skin in a straight line running around the chest as though you were taking a cross-section of the deer. The point of the sternum is a good reference point to start at. You definitely want to be behind the front legs. Next, you will need to make an incision from your cut around the chest all the way up the back of the neck to the base of the skull directly behind the antlers. Before you make this cut, position the deer’s head so that the neck is straight and the head is lined up square with the neck. Really pay attention to the way the deer is positioned and where you are actually cutting. Make sure that you are staying on top of the neck and that your cut isn’t drifting down one side. Make your cut as straight as possible. This incision is where the taxidermist will sew the hide back together after stretching it over the form that makes your mount. The straighter and cleaner your cut is, the easier it will be for the taxidermist to do his job. Make this cut by pushing straight down through the hide. You will cut some hair, but that doesn’t matter as you will never see this part of the mount anyway once it is up on the wall. You will also be cutting into the neck meat, but that is okay.

Once you have completed your incision up the back of the neck, you can begin removing the cape by skinning down the shoulders and the sides of the neck. Go slow! There is no need to hurry this operation as one slip of the knife can result in the taxidermist having to do a lot of unnecessary repair work. A good can taxidermist can repair some pretty bad mistakes, but there is no reason to test his skills if you take your time and work carefully. Work your way down the shoulders and neck until you get to the chest and underside of the neck. Don’t cut up the inside of the legs! There is no need to, and you could inadvertently cut where you don’t want to. You can just as easily cut the legs off below the elbow and peel the skin off like a sock without cutting it. At this point you will want the deer lying on its side or back so that you can get to the chest. The chest area is a little tricky skinning in the armpits and between the legs. It really helps to stretch the skin with your free hand and pay attention to where and what you are cutting. Again, go slow. This portion of the cape is the most visible on a mount and spending an extra five or ten minutes doing it right is well worth it when you consider that you will be looking at this mount for at least a few decades.

Keep skinning until you have the hide completely removed from the neck. When you get to the base of the ears and the lower jaw, stop. Skinning out the face is very difficult and takes lots of practice to learn, so let the taxidermist do it. This job is part of what you are paying for and your taxidermist will much rather skin the head for you than try to repair your mistakes. Skinning the ears, eyes, and mouth is very hard, and those are the features that really make for a good head mount. When you get to the base of the skull, just cut the head off with a saw or break the joint with a knife. If there is any excess blood or dirt on the cape, try to wash it off as best you can without getting the hide excessively wet. Blood can stain the hair on the cape, so try to keep the cape as clean as possible. Once you have the head off and the cape clean, lay it out and fold the sides in so that you have flesh touching flesh. Then, roll the cape up and if possible, cover the cape and head with a game bag.

To get a good cape and head mount, you need to take care of the cape just like you would meat that you are going to eat. You have to keep it cool and away from bugs and dirt. If the cape doesn’t stay cool and it begins to decompose, the hair will “slip” or fall out. This is definitely what you don’t want. If you aren’t going to get the head and cape to the taxidermist within twenty four hours, you should salt the cape.

To salt the cape, spread it out hair side down on a relatively clean surface. First, remove and big pieces of meat that may be still attached. Once you have most of the flesh off, pour a large amount of regular table salt all over the flesh side of the cape. Use non-iodized salt; it is usually sold in the grocery store as kosher or pickling salt. Don’t use rock salt as the grain size is too big. Fine grain salt has more surface area making it more absorbent. To get a large quantity of salt for cheap, go to a feed store and buy feed salt that is sold for feeding to animals. Just be sure to get plain salt that is fine grained. It usually comes in a fifty pound bag for a few dollars. Use your fingers to work the salt into the edges of the hide and any little nooks and crannies. Salt is cheap so be generous with it. Pay special attention to the edges of the hide as they will tend to curl up and stick to themselves. Once you have the cape completely salted, roll it back up and set it in a cool place where it can drain. The salt will draw moisture out of the cape and it needs to drain away. Whatever you do, don’t put it in a plastic bag or the bottom of a cooler where the liquid will pool around the cape rather than draining away. Doing either of those things are quick ways to ruin your cape. The very best thing to do is to salt the cape heavily, roll it up flesh side in, keep it cool and get it to the taxidermist as soon as you possibly can.

Having your buck mounted is a great way to remember the animal as well as the hunt. By taking a little extra time to do a good job caping, you can guarantee yourself a beautiful trophy for your wall. Caping isn’t really any more difficult than other skinning provided you think about what you are doing and make your cuts carefully.

Original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/caping-a-buck/

Field Dressing: The Gutless Method

Tue, 17 May 2011 11:50:26 -0400

There is another way to field dress deer that has come to be known as the gutless method. The gutless method is just that, it eliminates the need to remove the intestines and internal organs from the deer. Rather than starting on the inside and working out, as in traditional field dressing, with the gutless method, you work from the outside in. The gutless method has some distinct advantages in that you get the meat cooled down much quicker while completely avoiding the risk of puncturing the guts and contaminating the meat with urine, feces, or digestive juices. This method is perfect for the times when you need to break an animal down into pieces to pack it out of the woods as it saves you the extra, and unnecessary, work of first removing the entrails. The gutless method is also particularly useful when processing really large game like elk and moose.

On any game animal, the vast majority of edible meat is located on the outside of the skeleton and ribcage. By using the gutless method, you simply remove all of the edible meat from the outside of the carcass while never even opening the abdominal cavity.

The gutless method is best performed by two people, but it can be done alone, just not quite as gracefully. To begin, position the deer lying on its side with its feet together. You can start skinning at either the belly or the spine, it doesn’t really matter. Starting at the belly makes it a little easier to roll the animal over to its other side when you are finished with the first. Skin the deer normally, starting by cutting around the legs below the knees and elbows, and then working your way up the inside of the leg to the belly. Make an incision along the belly linking your two leg cuts, being careful not to open the abdominal cavity. Once you have done this, start peeling the skin off working towards the spine. You will also need to extend your incision up along the neck to the throat. The goal at this point is to completely remove the skin from the side of the deer that is facing up so that you can then remove the meat from that side as well. Skinning a little bit past the spine towards the other side of the deer makes it easier to remove the backstraps. Once you have skinned the deer completely on one side, it is time to start removing the quarters and meat from the upward facing side of the deer. Stretch the free skin out on the ground to act as a tarp and protect the rest of the meat from dirt.

Skinning

Before you start removing quarters and meat from your deer, get out your game bags and rope so that you can easily bag and hang the meat as it comes off. Once you have removed a cut of meat from the deer, there is no reason to set it on the ground again where it will get dirty. Take a few moments to figure out the next few steps in your meat recovery and care. If you are among trees, the easiest thing to do is hang the meat in game bags as it comes off the deer. Hanging not only keeps the meat clean, it lets air circulate around it which promotes cooling. If there aren’t any trees nearby, look around for a large rock or log to lay the meat on until you can get it into your pack, or hung up somewhere. It is far easier to keep your meat clean than to try to get dirt off of it later. If you aren’t taking all the meat out immediately, be sure to hang it high enough that it is out of reach of coyotes and other critters that may come around looking for a meal. On that note, hang your meat a little ways away from the gut pile and carcass if possible so if critters do come around, they will focus on the guts and hopefully leave your meat alone. If you forgot rope, or didn’t bring enough, you can tie the tops of game bags together and sling them over a tree branch if the bags are long enough. If you do this, be sure to wedge a stick between the bags of meat to allow air to flow in between.

Remove the Shoulder

The front shoulder is the easiest to remove as it is simply connected by muscle and tissue, so there is no joint that you need to break. Start by having your partner, or you if you are alone, lift the front leg straight up while prying slightly back towards the spine. Pulling like this will create tension on the tissue that you need to cut, making it easier as well as obvious where to cut. Start cutting along the ribcage in the armpit area. Cut right up against the ribcage using slashing strokes. It doesn’t take very many cuts with a sharp knife to remove the shoulder from a deer. As you get close to cutting the shoulder completely free, have your partner pull less forcefully on the leg, or they will go flying when you sever the last bit of muscle holding the shoulder on. Once the shoulder is free, place it in a game bag. At this point, you will need to remove the lower leg. There is no edible meat on the lower leg, and it can be discarded. If you have a saw, you can use it now, but there really is no need. The knee and elbow joints can easily be separated using only a knife. Start by cutting the tendons on the sides of the joint, and then flex the joint so that you can cut the ligaments inside. There is no perfect way to do this, and it takes a little effort, so keep trying. Typically, once you have cut most of the connective tissues, you can either twist apart or break the joint like you would a stick of firewood. Once you have removed the lower leg, tie the top of your game bag shut, and hang up the shoulder to cool.

Remove the Hindquarter

Next you will remove the hindquarter and rump roast all in one piece. Start the same as you did with the shoulder by pulling the leg up and back, but instead of cutting into the armpit, you with have to cut along the pelvis until you reach the hip joint. Between the hind legs, you will notice a white stripe right at the center line. This white stripe is the pelvis. Begin cutting just to the side of the white stripe on the same side as the leg you are removing. Have your partner pull up forcefully on the leg while you cut straight in towards the middle of the deer. You won’t cut into the guts as your knife is on the outside of the pelvis. After one or two cuts, you will begin to see the pelvis itself. Follow along the bone with your knife, cutting the muscle away as you go. Again, your partner pulling up will create tension which will show you where to cut. When removing quarters, it is always tempting to cut more towards the leg as it seems easier, but that will leave a lot of meat on the carcass. Instead, orient your cuts more towards the carcass and away from the quarter that you are removing. As you cut along the pelvis, if your partner is pulling hard enough, you will probably here a “crack” and the hip will seem to give way. This means you have reached and dislocated the hip joint. You will see it; it looks like a little white ball and cup. These are the head of the femur and the socket in the pelvis which it fits into. Cut between the ball and cup, continuing up and back towards the spine. At this point, the rear leg will feel much looser, and you will notice that it is only attached by muscle. Keep working your knife along the pelvis until you pass up and over it. Now cut along the top of the pelvis back towards the midline of the body. Again, pause for a moment to be sure that you are ready to bag the hindquarter before removing it. Slice the rest of the way through the muscle above the tail, and remove the hindquarter. With the hindquarter free, you can now cut off the lower leg by splitting the knee joint the same way you split the elbow joint after having removed the shoulder. It is possible to remove the lower legs before removing the shoulder and hindquarter, but they make good handles to hold onto and they provide a lot of leverage.

Once you have the hindquarter off, be sure to remove any of the rump roast that is left on the pelvis. If you cut really close to the bone, the rump roast should come off with the hindquarter, but sometimes pieces get left behind. Cut off any of these pieces and save them for stew meat or for grinding.

Remove the Backstrap

Now that you have removed the hindquarter and shoulder, it is time to remove the backstrap. The backstrap is the best cut of meat on a deer, and special care should be taken to remove it properly, while keeping it clean. If you have ever seen a whole pork loin at the grocery store, then you have an idea of what your goal is. The backstrap is a long muscle that runs from the top of the shoulder all the way along the spine to the pelvis. There is one on each side of the deer and they are about as long as your arm. The backstrap it self is cylindrical in shape and it sits in an open “V” formed by the ribs and the spinous processes of the vertebrae. To remove the backstrap, you will need to cut it away form the vertebrae and ribs. Begin by finding the spinous processes with your fingers. They are the hard white bumps that you can feel just below the surface directly on the midline of the deer’s back. Your first cut will be along these bones from neck to pelvis. Slice downward along the spinous processes until your knife hits bone. Be sure to let your knife slide along the spinous processes so as to get as much meat as possible. Use your fingers to help pull the muscle away from the bone as you slice. Continue cutting along the spine until you have an incision running completely along the length of the spine. Now, free the end of the backstrap by slicing through it where it attaches to the pelvis. Begin removing the backstrap by slicing underneath it separating it from the ribs underneath. Work your way up towards the neck pulling the backstrap up and away as you go. You should be able to see the ribs and spinous processes with very little of the backstrap muscle left on them if you are cutting properly. Once you get up to the shoulder, you have two options. You can either cut the backstrap free, or keep cutting along the neck so that the neck meat stays attached to the backstrap. Bagging and packing meat out is easiest if you have fewer individual pieces of meat to keep track of. For this reason, it is easier to keep the neck meat attached to the backstrap by continuing your cuts up towards the head removing the meat from the neck as you go. On the neck, you are removing the two slabs of muscle that run along each side of the neck vertebrae. Once you get up to the base of the skull, simply cut through the muscle and you should have the whole backstrap and neck meat from one side of the deer all in one big long piece. Again, place meat in a game bag and hang to cool. When you bag and hang your backstrap, be sure to do so in a way that you don’t end up with the meat all wadded up in the bottom of the game bag. If you do this, it won’t be able to cool as quickly, and you will have effectively defeated the whole purpose of hanging the meat in the first place. Sometimes it works best to drape the backstrap over a tree branch or hang it from a piece of rope tied around the middle so that is can stay stretched out.

Remove the Tenderloin

At this point you have removed the majority of edible meat from one side of the deer. There is still one piece of meat that is really good, and should not be forgotten, the tenderloin. The tenderloin actually lies inside the body cavity, but you can access it now that you have removed the backstrap. The tenderloin lies just beneath the spine and runs from the pelvis to just behind the ribcage. It is a small cylinder shaped muscle that you should be able to see directly below where you removed the backstrap. Getting the tenderloin out is a little tricky as it is in near the guts, and you can’t just start cutting without watching what you are doing. You will use your hand as much or more than your knife when removing the tenderloin. Begin by forcing your fingers in and around the tenderloin tearing it free from the surrounding connective tissue. Once you have it free along its length, you can either tear or cut it free at both ends. The tenderloin is very tender as its name suggests and even though it isn’t very big, it is worth the extra effort to get it out.

Rib Meat

Now, you can remove the rib meat for grinding into hamburger. This is easily removed in strips by slicing in between each set if ribs. Any other large bits of meat that you missed or didn’t get while removing the larger pieces should also be harvested for use as burger or stew meat.

You have now successfully harvested the meat from one side of your deer and it is time to do the other side. First, stretch out the free skin from the side you already harvested to act as a tarp. Then, simply roll the carcass over onto the loose hide and proceed to skin and cut up the other side of the deer. If you want to harvest any of the internal organs, you can do so after having removed all of the other meat by simply opening up the abdominal cavity and removing them.

Trim as you go

While you are quartering your deer is a great time to do a little initial trimming of your meat. Cut away and discard any bloodshot or damaged portions of meat. Also, deer fat, unlike beef, quickly goes rancid and will impart a gamy flavor to your venison, so cut off and discard any large portions of fat. Meat processors charge by the pound, so there is no reason to get charged for waste and trim that they are going to cut off and throw away anyway.

When field dressing your deer be sure to pay close attention to and comply with your state’s laws regarding waste of game and proof of sex requirements. Some states require that all rib and neck meat be harvested whereas others do not. Proof of sex refers to the legal requirement that you be able to prove the sex of the deer that you harvested. These requirements vary from state to state, so be sure to check your state’s laws so that you are in compliance. Often, you will be required to leave the sex organs naturally attached to one hindquarter. If so, you will want to leave them attached to a hindquarter by a strip of skin or other connective tissue.

The gutless method isn’t really all that revolutionary when you realize that you will have to quarter your deer anyway if you are too far from the road to carry it out whole. With this method, you simply skip the chore of gutting and go right to meat removal. By not cutting open the abdominal cavity, you avoid any risk of puncturing the intestines or bladder and contaminating your meat. This method works particularly well on large game like elk and moose where it is all but impossible to move the whole animal. Another benefit for those who choose to process their own game meat at home is that you end up with a lot less bone and trim meat at home that you have to dispose of. Though one should always strive to utilize as much of an animal as possible, the truth is that all of the bones, fat, sinew, and other inedible portions will get thrown away. It is much easier to simply leave all of this unusable material in the woods for the scavengers rather than go to the effort of packing it home only to have to find somewhere to throw it away.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/field-dressing-the-gutless-method/

Field Dressing

Mon, 16 May 2011 12:37:38 -0400

Field dressing refers to the gutting and skinning of the game that you have harvested. Field dressing is the first step involved in preparing your game for butchering and ultimately consumption. Proper meat care is absolutely imperative if you desire to have good tasting, healthy meat from your deer. Once you have killed an animal, you have made a commitment to properly care for and process the meat so that you can eat it. Taking care of and harvesting the meat from the animal you have killed is the ultimate way to show respect for the life of that animal.

Contrary to what many people believe, game meat does not inherently taste bad or “gamey.” Wild game meat does have a much richer, meatier flavor than the nearly flavorless beef, pork, and chicken that most have become accustomed to, but it will only taste “gamey” if it isn’t cared for properly. Any meat, no matter what animal it came from, will taste really bad if not kept cool and clean.

Perhaps the easiest way to visualize the proper way to take care of your game meat is to imagine this scenario: You have just gone to the grocery store and purchased a beautiful prime rib for one hundred dollars. Would you drag this prime rib through the dirt, and leave it out in the heat, exposed to bugs? No, of course you wouldn’t, but unfortunately that is what a lot of people do with their game meat. I’m willing to bet you would take the prime rib directly home and put it in the refrigerator, keeping it wrapped up and protected the whole time during transport. So, you should do the same thing with your deer.

Keep it Cool

Once you have taken an animal, your main enemies are heat, dirt, and bugs. Heat allows bacterial growth, which causes decomposition. Decomposition is just a big word for rotting, and no one wants to eat rotting or rotten meat. Getting meat dirty inoculates it with bacteria as well as wasting the meat that has dirt on it as it will have to be trimmed away. Flies will lay eggs on exposed meat, which will quickly hatch into maggots if they are allowed to remain. The first thing you have to deal with is the body heat that was in the animal when it died. Your number one priority is to get that body heat out of the animal to get the meat cooled down. The first steps to doing this are to remove the deer’s skin and entrails. A deer’s hide is perfectly engineered to keep heat inside its body. The hide performs this job just as well when the deer is dead as when it was alive. By skinning the deer, you remove the insulating layer of skin and hair which would otherwise hold the deer’s body heat in. Removing the hide also allows outside air to contact the meat and cool it down. Removing the internal organs removes a large amount of heat holding mass while also allowing air to circulate inside the body cavity.

How you choose to handle your deer will be dictated largely by the air temperature in your area, where you killed it, how you will be getting it out of the field, and who will be processing it. If daytime temperatures are below forty degrees, then you have a lot more time to deal with your meat, as it is basically as cold as it would be in a refrigerator. If daytime temperatures are warmer than forty degrees, you will have less time that you can leave your meat out in the open air, as bacteria will be able to grow and spoil your meat. If you have your deer hanging, and night time temperatures get down to near freezing or below, you can safely hang your deer for several days provided you are able to insulate it from the heat of the day. One trick is to expose the hanging carcass to the cold night air and then wrap it in sleeping bags or blankets during the day to hold in the cold.

You will want to handle field dressing differently depending on how you plan to transport your deer from the field. If you can carry or drag the whole deer to a nearby road easily, then you may wish to do so and perform all of your skinning and gutting back at a shop or barn. If you have to carry the deer out on your back, you will need to break it down into smaller more manageable pieces. If you are deep in the woods on foot, you may want to completely bone out your deer, only taking the edible portions out with you. Even if you can carry the deer out whole, you may wish to at least gut it in the field. The guts of a deer make for a rather large mess to get rid of, which will begin to stink in short order. Unless you have somewhere to haul them away to, they are better left in the field for the coyotes and other scavengers to feast upon. Be conscious however of where you leave the guts of your deer. If you are stand hunting and yourself or others intend to use the stand again in the near future, you don’t want to be leaving a gut pile nearby to spook the other deer.

Removing the Entrails

To begin the gutting process, you must first gain access to the abdominal cavity. This is achieved by cutting open the skin and muscle tissue of the abdomen. It is helpful to have a partner to hold the deer’s legs in position if you are going to be gutting the deer on the ground. You want to make an incision along the midline of the belly from the pelvis to the sternum. Begin by taking a large pinch of belly skin between the thumb and fingers of your weak hand and slice a small hole in the skin with your knife. Once you have made this hole, insert your index and middle fingers into the hole, palm up, and spread your fingers apart. The purpose of this is to hold back the internal organs while slicing open the skin. Now, carefully insert your knife, edge up between your fingers and begin to make a slit in the skin up towards the sternum. At this point you will have just opened the skin, and you still need to open up the abdominal wall. The abdominal wall is made up of strong muscle and connective tissue that you will have to cut through. The goal here is to open up the cavity without puncturing the entrails, puncturing the entrails will allow feces, urine, rumen contents or digestive juices to get on your meat, all of which you do not want. Work slowly and carefully so as not to puncture the guts and you will never have a problem. You will be tempted to simply stab the point of your knife into the abdomen, but you must resist this temptation. The stomach and entrails are pressing against the inside of the abdominal wall and you will surely puncture them by stabbing your knife in. Instead, make very shallow slicing strokes until you have opened a small hole. You will know you have breached the abdominal wall when white fat or intestines begin to try to press out the slit you have made. Again, place your fingers in the hole and use them to push the entrails in while slicing open the abdomen with your knife. Work slowly and incrementally so as not to cut yourself or the guts. The goal here is to work both ways, opening the abdomen from the sternum to the pelvis. Once you have opened up the abdomen from sternum to pelvis, it is time to take out the guts. You will notice that the entrails are pretty well attached to the inside of the abdomen by a variety of thin tissues known as fascia. This fascia can usually just be ripped with your hands as you are pulling out the guts. To totally remove the internal organs, you will have to separate them from their connection points both fore and aft. You will also have to cut through the diaphragm. The diaphragm is the thin yet tough muscular wall that separates the abdomen from the chest cavity. If you can see the diaphragm, carefully cut through it along the outer wall of the chest along the ribs. This will likely release a lot of blood from the chest cavity that has pooled there from the damage caused by your bullet. It may be necessary to pull out some of the guts to gain access to the diaphragm. If so, pull firmly but gently as you don’t want them to rip and you aren’t yet removing them completely, just rolling them out of the way. Once you have cut through the diaphragm, you can begin pulling everything back towards you, out of the chest. Now is not the time to get squeamish as you will have to reach far up into the chest. Just roll up your sleeves, and get in there. This is a good time to play amateur scientist and analyze exactly what internal organs your bullet hit, and what damage ultimately killed your deer. Pay attention to the layout of the internal organs as they provide much insight for future shot placement. Also, if you are going to harvest the heart, liver, and kidneys for consumption, now is the time to do so. Remove them now and place them in a game bag rather than trying to dig them out of a dirt covered gut pile later.

To detach all of the organs, you will need to reach up into the chest as far as you can and sever the trachea and esophagus. They are easy to find as they run together and are the only thing left holding everything in at the head end. It is a little tricky reaching up into the chest cavity with both hands and a knife where you can’t see. This operation is performed more by feel than sight, so go very slowly and cut away from yourself. Hold your knife so that your index finger is running along the spine of the blade with the tip of your finger resting on the tip of the blade. This way, you know exactly where the cutting edge is in relation to your hands. Reach up as far as you can, following the trachea and esophagus with your free hand, then pull back towards you slightly and sever the trachea and esophagus above and away from your free hand. Once you have done this, you can pull everything out, but keep in mind the guts are still attached at the rear end. Traditionally, people have always thought it necessary to split open the pelvis. While splitting the pelvis does make it a little easier to remove the colon, anus, and bladder it can be difficult and isn’t necessary. If you have a saw, the pelvis is easily sawn through, but trying to split it with a knife is a good way to break your knife, or cut yourself. Dealing with the bladder, sex organs, colon, and anus is the trickiest part of the gutting process. Part of this comes from our natural squeamishness about the region in general as well as the fact that they contain feces and urine which will contaminate the meat if spilled. Further complicating matters is the requirement in most states to leave “proof of sex” naturally attached to either the carcass, a quarter, or a major portion of meat. Be sure to read your hunting regulations carefully to insure that you are in compliance with the law. The pelvis forms a tunnel of bone through which the colon and the urethra pass. The colon ends at the anus while the urethra extends out through the pelvis, down the underside of the body to the penis. The easiest way to detach everything is to make a circular cut around the anus from the outside. This will effectively detach everything, allowing you to pull it into the body cavity and out. Be aware, this method severs the urethra in a buck, so be sure to pull out the bladder quickly afterward to avoid leakage. Also, be sure to pinch the colon between your fingers, to prevent feces from leaking into the body cavity. Once you have detached the organs at both ends, you can simply roll all of the guts out and let any blood drain out of the body cavity. At this point, you may wish to move your deer several feet away from the gut pile, to give yourself more room to work. If you are going to hang your deer somewhere else to skin and you don’t have far to go, you are now ready to transport your deer.

Skinning

Even if it is cold out, you need to get the skin off of your deer as soon as is reasonably possible. If you are taking your deer somewhere to hang it and skin it, you need to do so relatively quickly. The hide is very good at holding heat, and it needs to come off. If you can hang the deer up to skin it, do so as it makes the job much easier, but skinning on the ground is easy too, you just have to be more careful about not getting the meat dirty. If you are going to have your buck head mounted, you will have to skin differently than if you are not. To have a head mount made, you will have to cape out your buck, which will be covered in another article. Here we will assume that you are not going to have your deer mounted. Since you have already gutted your deer, the skin is already open and ready to be peeled off. You will need to make an incision around each leg below the knee and elbow joints. You will also need to extend your incision from the sternum up to a point between the front armpits. Then, slice up the inside of each leg so that you have the skin open from the inside of each leg to the abdominal cut. There really is no right or wrong order to taking the skin off and you will find what best suits you. If you are skinning on the ground, lay the deer on its side and begin by removing the skin from the side that is up. As you get the skin off you can lay it out behind the deer, rolling the deer over back onto its own hide to remove the skin on the other side. This will help to keep your meat clean. Start at the legs and work your way towards the body. Progress will be slow at first around the legs. Once you get up onto the body, the skin will come off much quicker as you can make much longer cuts. Skinning does not require a lot of force. You should keep your knife sharp so that it takes very little pressure to cut the connective tissue holding the skin onto the body. While you are skinning, your knife will occasionally get hair and fat stuck to it. When this happens, wipe the blade off on the hide and continue on.

When removing the skin from an animal, you are not cutting the skin itself, nor the meat, but rather the thin connective tissues between the two. The best way to do this is to grab the loose skin tight in your free hand and forcefully pull it away from the body. Often, especially if the deer is still warm, the skin will peel off just by you pulling. Most of the time, you will need a little help from your knife. Pulling the skin away from the body will stretch out the connective tissue and pull it very tight so that only light pressure from your knife will be needed to cut it. This is the part of skinning that takes the most finesse and experience to learn. If you are getting lots of pieces of meat coming off with the skin, then you are cutting into the meat and need to cut more towards the skin. If you are cutting holes in the skin, then you need to make your cuts more towards the body. If you have an opportunity to help someone else skin their deer, jump in and help because you can only really learn by doing it. When you get to the tail, just cut it off at the base and leave it attached to the skin. Keep working your way along the deer’s body skinning as you go. Work your way up to the shoulders and then extend you same incision from the belly up along the underside of the neck until you reach the jaw. Keep skinning all the way up the neck until you reach the base of the skull. Once you have reached the base of the skull, simply cut off the head and you will have a completely skinned and gutted deer carcass ready for processing. If you want to, you can now also cut off the legs below the knee and elbow. If you are taking the deer to a butcher for processing, don’t cut off the hind legs. The ligament on the back of a deer’s knee makes a really handy loop for hanging up the hindquarters, or the whole deer, cutting the leg off at the knee releases this ligament rendering it useless, so don’t cut them if you are taking the deer to a processor. Deer hides make very soft leather, or can make a nice decoration when tanned with the hair left on. If you are so inclined, having the hide from your deer tanned can make a nice memento of the hunt.

Proper meat care and efficient field dressing technique are the marks of an experienced hunter. While it can seem like a complicated task at first, it really is pretty simple. If you have an opportunity to help someone else with their deer, be sure to pitch in, not only will it help you learn, it is also the right thing to do. Helping someone else out with there deer is one of the quickest ways to make new friends and foster goodwill between yourself and other hunters. Also, don’t be afraid to ask for help from other more experienced hunters if you feel overwhelmed by the job. After you have one or two field dressing jobs under your belt, you won’t have any trouble at all.

Original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/field-dressing/

Blood Trailing

Fri, 13 May 2011 11:47:00 -0400

Many might think that blood trailing is only something done by bowhunters, but most deer taken with a rifle don’t immediately fall dead when shot, so there is almost always some blood trailing to do during the recovery process. Blood trailing isn’t difficult when a good shot is made as the hemorrhaging that results from a solid shot through the vitals makes an easy to follow trail. A deer that is hit in the heart/lung vital area won’t go very far while leaving an easily followed trail. When a shot is less than perfect, trailing can become more difficult. A deer that isn’t bleeding heavily leaves much less of a trail while traveling further faster. Based on how well you think your shot was, and the sign you find at the place the deer was standing, you should be able to estimate how far and how hard you will have to trail your deer.

The terrain you are hunting also affects how difficult it is to track a wounded deer. In open country such as desert or high mountains, it is likely that you will be able to watch your deer fall. The most difficult areas to track are those with thick brush or other heavy cover. Any time visibility is limited, tracking will be much more difficult. When choosing to shoot, it is important that you take into consideration your ability to recover the animal before taking the shot. For instance, if it is close to nightfall, raining, and the deer is near heavy cover at the maximum limit of your effective range, it is probably a good idea to pass on the shot. This is a decision that every hunter must make for themselves. If you wound and are unable to recover a deer, the fault will be yours and yours alone. It is easy to get carried away in the excitement of the hunt, so just be conscious of all the conditions before pulling the trigger.

While this may seem painfully obvious, always take your rifle with you when recovering your deer. Never assume that the deer is already dead. It is always possible that you may have to shoot the deer again especially if you are tracking a deer that you know is only marginally wounded.

Once you have decided to follow the blood trail, it is very important not to destroy sign as you go! Walk to the side of the trail so that you don’t walk on the deer’s tracks or blood. This is where it really helps to work with a partner so that you can leapfrog down the trail from one piece of sign to another. Always keep track of where you found the last blood or sign. If you have to search ahead for more sign, be sure to mark the spot where you last found blood with flagging tape or a piece of clothing. Search by making half circles ahead of the last blood being careful not to step on or otherwise destroy any sign. Patience really is the key to following a difficult trail. There is always an impulse to hurry or jump far ahead thinking more sign is just past the next bush, but a sparse trail is easy to lose and once lost can be impossible to regain. Always search from the last known sign. If you have to, get down on your hands and knees and crawl along the trail looking for drops of blood no bigger than a pin head. If you are unable to find the next blood or track, begin making circles around the last known blood slowly making your circles larger and larger. The trail may double back on itself or turn at a strange angle, so don’t blindly continue to search in the same direction of travel if you aren’t finding sign. While trailing, don’t make the mistake of being fixated on the ground in front of you. Frequently look up and ahead as you may spot your buck. Also, keep in mind that much of the blood won’t be on the ground, but will be up on leaves, grass and trees.

Following a blood trail is much easier when working with a team. Never be afraid to recruit help when following a trail. You will likely feel embarrassed and ashamed if you make a bad shot, but everyone makes mistakes and getting others to help will significantly increase your chances of recovering your deer. The best way to work together is to leap frog down the trail from one track or spot of blood to the next. This way, one person is always standing at last blood while the other person is finding the next sign. Just be sure to stay spread out and work together patiently. Going to get help has the secondary effect of making you wait which is always a good thing when following a marginally wounded deer. Several sets of eyes can pick up clues and follow a trail far better than one.

When you are following a wounded deer, you should look for more than just drops of blood to reveal the path taken by the deer. You may be able to see the deer’s tracks as a running deer usually leaves very deep, distinct hoof prints. You will also be able to notice disturbances to the vegetation along the deer’s path. Broken twigs and branches as well as overturned sticks, bent grass and leaves all indicate recent movement. Sometimes, you won’t necessarily be able to pick any one clue, but you will be able to “see” which way the deer went through an area by the disturbances to the vegetation.

As you are making your way down the trail, it is important to continually reevaluate the decisions you have already made. If you rushed into the tracking and are now finding very little blood, or you spook the deer out of a bed, you need to stop and wait. If the amount of blood is getting heavier or the trail is beginning to wander randomly, then you can be sure you don’t have much further to go.

If you are following a wounded deer, and the sign simply runs out, then you will have to switch search methods. No animal that walks can move through an area without leaving some sign, but sometimes deer simply stop bleeding and the ground is either too hard or too covered in foliage to find tracks. If there is no trail to follow, you will have to start searching in a grid pattern looking for either the deer or more blood. If you haven’t waited several hours, now is the time to do so. If you took up the trail immediately and it has run out, wait at least several hours before resuming the search. If you have already waited, continue searching, realizing you may be searching for a deer that has hidden itself. Be sure to mark the location of the last sign you found as you or someone else may be able to pick up the trail again on a second or third attempt. When you start searching a grid, begin by working back and forth at intervals perpendicular to the direction that the deer was traveling when you lost the trail. If you still don’t find anything, start to work back and forth along lines parallel to the deer’s original direction of travel. Pay particular attention to areas that have thick cover or otherwise good hiding places. There are no set rules to wounded animal behavior. Some people will say “wounded deer only go downhill” while there is some logic to this assumption, it is not always true. Continue searching until you find the trail again, the deer, or until you simply have done your best and have to admit defeat.

Tracking wounded deer is as much an art as it is a science. While we all work hard to make lethal shots, even the hardest hit deer typically have to be tracked some distance. As you become more experienced as a hunter, you will have the opportunity to develop this skill in a variety of conditions and situations. New hunters need not suffer too much anxiety over tracking their buck after the shot. As long as you use premium bullets, only take good shots, and follow these tracking guidelines, you too can have a trophy on your wall and steaks in your freezer.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/blood-trailing/

Field Shooting

Wed, 11 May 2011 13:14:41 -0400

Shooting a deer in the field is much different than shooting targets at the range. In the field, the distance to the target isn’t at exact intervals, the deer won’t hold still for long, and there are no benches. The basic fundamentals of marksmanship still apply just as they do on the range, but it becomes more challenging to get steady and get your shot off at the right time. Good sight alignment, trigger press, and getting steady still result in accuracy. By setting up your range sessions to simulate hunting conditions, you can greatly improve you effectiveness in the field. Hunting is exciting and when you finally get a shot at your first deer, you will most likely experience symptoms of Buck Fever, which is a term used by hunters to describe the feeling you get in anticipation of shooting a deer. When you choose to shoot a living animal, the stakes are much higher than on the range. On the practice range, a missed shot will only hurt your pride. In the field, a poorly executed shot can either mean the difference between a successful or unsuccessful hunt, or worse can result in wounding and causing undue suffering to an animal. Because of this, it is necessary to know your limits and adhere to them. Setting reasonable limitations for yourself doesn’t make you less of a hunter, but trying to exceed your limits and wounding, or losing game does.

To quote the late Colonel Jeff Cooper “The basic principle of the field marksman can be stated thus:

If you can get closer, get closer.
If you can get steadier, get steadier.” (32)

The average hunter, no matter how much they hunt, never gets enough practice shooting at animals. To become an expert at anything requires thousands of repetitions, and shooting that many game animals simply isn’t feasible. You can however, set up your practice sessions at the range to simulate conditions that you will encounter in the field. Shooting off of a bench is fun because it makes hitting the target easier, and it makes it possible to shoot tiny little groups. For the hunter, shooting off a bench is good for sighting in a rifle and developing the basic fundamentals, but once these goals have been achieved, it is time to move away from the bench and shoot like you will when hunting. When you go to the range, take your backpack and shooting sticks with you to use as a rest just like you will when hunting. If possible, practice shooting off of improvised rests such as rocks and logs. If you are creative, there are all manner of good solid rests to be had out in the field. Practice shooting from all of the different positions, prone, kneeling, sitting, and offhand. The more familiar you are with the different positions, the better you will be able to use the position that best suits the shot opportunities that you get. You will also learn the limitations of certain positions.

Rimfire Practice

To become proficient, you will have to practice with the rifle you intend to hunt with, but it isn’t necessary, or even advisable to conduct all of your practice with a hunting caliber rifle. You can develop all of your shooting skills using a .22 rimfire rifle. Using a .22 will allow you to practice far more than you ever will with your hunting rifle, simply due to the difference in price of ammunition. All the principles of shooting are exactly the same no matter what caliber of rifle you are using. The only thing missing with a .22 is the noise and recoil, but that is a good thing. We are not physiologically adapted to having an explosion go off in front of our face and our shoulder shoved back without reacting in some way. Our body’s natural reaction is to close our eyes (to protect them) and to raise our hands in front of our face (again to protect our eyes). In shooting, this natural reaction will manifest itself as closing of the eyes and jerking the trigger, which will pull the rifle off target. This is called a flinch. A flinch isn’t unmanly or an indication that you are a wimp; it is just a natural reaction. The greater a rifle’s muzzle blast and recoil, the more likely you are to flinch. A flinch is severely detrimental to accuracy and therefore must be avoided, or cured when it arises. Starting out with a large caliber rifle can make learning difficult, not to mention expensive. Practicing with a .22 will allow you to develop all of the necessary skills without the risk of developing a flinch. If you do notice yourself starting to flinch or otherwise react, go back to the .22 and practice very deliberately until you can achieve a clean trigger break without flinching.

Both Eyes Open

The proper way to shoot is with both eyes open. Even with a scope, or aperture sight, both eyes open is the way to shoot. As long as you are looking through the scope with your dominant eye, the image you see with that eye will override the other eye. You will see two images, but the one seen through your dominant eye will be the clearest. There are a variety of reasons for shooting with both eyes open. There are physiological factors such as pupil dilation and focusing that make it difficult for your eyes to function properly when one is closed. Another reason is the fact that looking through a scope limits your field of vision. You could be intently looking through your scope at a little buck, waiting for him to present a shot while a few feet out of your field of view, a monster buck steps out into the clear and stands broadside. If you have one eye closed, you will never see the other buck, but if you keep both eyes open, you will be able to see the little buck through your scope and see the big buck step out with your other eye. Practice shooting with both eyes open and you quickly find it to be much easier and more comfortable, particularly during extended shooting sessions.

Offhand

The offhand position is when you shoot standing up, holding the rifle in both hands. Offhand is the least steady position as you are using your body to completely support the weight of the rifle. It is very difficult to hold a rifle completely still while aiming at a target. Shooting offhand, you will have to accept and grow accustomed to shooting with a slight wobble in your sight picture. A good trick to use when shooting from less stable positions is to keep your scope set on a lower magnification level if you are using a variable scope. At a lower level of magnification, your target will appear smaller, but your reticle will also appear to wobble much less. If you try to use too much magnification, your reticle will appear to wobble excessively which you will attempt to compensate for causing it to wobble further. You will still be able to shoot just as precisely if not more so, with your scope set at a lower power. When hunting, you should always carry your rifle with the scope set on its lowest possible magnification. That way, if you are presented with a close range shot, you will be able to pick-up the deer in the scope and take the shot. If you have an opportunity for a longer shot, you will likely have time to increase the magnification level of your scope, if necessary. When a close shot is presented, you will have too much difficulty finding the target in your scope if you have left it on a high level of magnification. Rarely is it completely necessary to shoot offhand in a hunting situation except to shoot over tall grass or bushes. If you must shoot offhand, be sure to get close enough that you can still place your shot precisely. Shooting offhand is challenging, and for most hunters should only be used out to one hundred yards or less. If a buck is further away than that, you most likely have time to get into a more stable position. A good rule of thumb to remember is, the closer you are to the ground, the steadier you can be.

Kneeling

The kneeling position is when you kneel on your right knee and rest your left elbow on your left knee (for a right-handed shooter, for lefties, just switch knees). This is more stable than offhand as you are lower to the ground and can use your leg to support your arm and the forend of your rifle. Kneeling works well when you need to be steadier than offhand, but you need to get the shot off quickly. It can also be used where vegetation would block a shot from the sitting position. Kneeling works, but its effectiveness is limited making it suitable for shots only slightly longer than those you would take offhand.

Sitting

The sitting position, particularly when using shooting sticks, can be almost as steady as shooting off of a bench. Sitting is probably the most commonly used position for hunting. It is relatively quick to get into, flexible enough to accommodate various shot angles, and high enough to clear most grass and vegetation. There are a variety of ways to use the sitting position, but the best is sitting on your backside, with your feet spread apart, leaning forward with your elbows over your knees. Or, if you are using shooting sticks, sit a little more upright and use your forward hand to hold the sticks and forend together, pulling back towards you slightly for stability. Sitting is very stable, while also allowing you to adjust your position and move your rifle to change shot angles if your target is on the move. The sitting position is the most useful for hunting, and as such should account for much of your range practice. Once you get good at hitting the target from the sitting position, you should practice getting into it quickly.

Prone

Lying prone is extremely stable and can be even better than shooting off of a bench. The prone position can be difficult to use when hunting, as your shot will often be obscured by grass or vegetation. If you have the option to use the prone position, you should do so every time. Lying prone allows you to rest the weight of the rifle completely on a rest which is supported by the ground. Your body weight is also completely supported by the ground, which is why the prone position is so stable. Bipods work very well for shooting from prone, and are as steady as shooting off of a bench. Prone is also the easiest position to maintain for long periods as you are lying on the ground. If you are waiting for a buck to get out of his bed, need to take a long shot, or have plenty of time to get set up, prone is always the best choice. Unfortunately, there isn’t always room to stretch out on the ground. Sharp rocks, cactuses, sticks, snow, and mud can all make the prone position uncomfortable or impossible to use.

Improvised Rests

If you are going to shoot off of an improvised rest, be sure to use some sort of padding between the rifle and the object you are resting it on. Your pack, an extra shirt, or rolled-up coat, all make excellent padding for an improvised rest. Shooting off of your backpack works really well as it provides a lot of padding and works almost like a set of sandbags. At a minimum, place your hand between the forearm and whatever object you are using. Resting your rifle directly on a hard surface won’t be steady, will damage your stock’s finish during recoil, and is likely to throw your shot off. Always rest the forearm of the rifle on the object, not the barrel. Resting your barrel on an object will also throw your shot off.

When setting up realistic practice, know that there are no warm up shots in the deer woods. The shot you take to harvest your buck will likely be the first time you have fired your rifle in days or weeks. When you go to the range, take your first shot as though you are shooting at a buck and see how you do. You may be surprised to find out that you aren’t quite as good as you thought with your first shot.

Establish Your Maximum Range

To ethically take game in the field, you will have to determine your personal maximum effective range. Your maximum effective range is whatever distance at which you can keep all of your shots inside a deer’s vital area. The standard test has always been a white paper plate. If you can keep all your shots inside of a paper plate, then you are still within your effective range. Practice at various distances until you find your maximum effective range. Keep in mind that your maximum effective range will be different depending on shooting position. Off hand, it may only be 60 yards whereas sitting it may be 200, and prone 300. Every shooter is different, what is important is to know your maximum distance. It is far more shameful to shoot farther than you really can and wound an animal than to simply admit that the animal is out of range. Choosing not to take a shot is never a bad choice. You can always try to get closer, and tomorrow may bring new opportunities, but once you have pulled the trigger, there is no turning back. Only through practice at the range will you be able to determine your maximum range. Also, through practice, you will be able to increase your maximum effective range as your shooting skills improve. When you do go to the range, practice at distances farther than you are comfortable shooting in the field. At longer range, every tiny mistake is magnified. Shooting farther makes you really focus on the fundamentals and will improve your shooting dramatically. Long range shooting also has the psychological effect of making shorter shots seem really easy. Shooting at longer ranges, you will also begin to notice how wind affects your shots. Wind can play a huge factor in your ability to place your shots in the field. As you practice under a variety of conditions, you will experience how wind affects your shots. There may be a time in the field when you have to get closer because of wind, or simply pass on a shot.

Buck Fever

Buck Fever is the term used to describe the adrenaline rush that you get when you are about to shoot a game animal. All hunters get Buck Fever to one degree or another, and part of growing as a hunter is learning to control it. Typically, Buck Fever makes your heart beat fast, and makes you a little shaky. Usually, the more anticipation leading up to the hunt, or the bigger the size of the trophy, the more Buck Fever you will get. Taking deep breaths and focusing on what you have to do usually help to calm you down enough to get steady for a shot. If you get Buck Fever too bad, you may have to look away for a few seconds, or close your eyes and try to collect yourself. A good way to simulate this at the range is to run or do some exercise that gets your heart rate up, and then try shooting while your heart is really pounding. It takes more mental control, but it can be done.

The Trigger Press

In target shooting, one will typically press the trigger very slowly in attempt to achieve a “surprise break.” A “surprise break” is when you focus intently on the target and press the trigger so gradually that when the rifle does go off it surprises you. Shooting this way helps to prevent you from jerking the trigger or flinching in anticipation of the rifle’s muzzle blast and recoil. Even the best sight picture can result in an errant shot if the trigger is manipulated improperly. Unfortunately in the field, we usually don’t have the luxury of taking a long time to execute our shot. Deer move around and you may only have a few seconds when the deer is in the right position, in an open lane, and clear for a shot. You will have to be able to properly press the trigger so as to get your shot off at the right time. You will still be going for a surprise break, just in a shorter amount of time. Care must be taken when practicing this, so as not to start jerking the trigger. A simple way to practice this is to run a scenario in your head imagining the target is a buck, and only give yourself a few seconds to fire once you have your sight picture. Proper trigger manipulation is everything in shooting, and the more you practice it properly, the better you will get.

Reload

Another important skill, particularly for the hunter, is to train yourself to always chamber another round immediately after firing. There will come a time in your hunting career that you will need to take a follow up shot at an animal. If you have it ingrained in your body to always reload, you can get off another shot quickly, even with a bolt action or single shot rifle. You should practice chambering another round without removing the butt of the rifle from your shoulder. As soon as you fire, work the action with your firing hand while simultaneously reacquiring your sight picture. You can easily practice this skill during dry-fire practice. After making sure that your rifle is unloaded, aim at a safe backstop and squeeze off an imaginary shot, then immediately work the action of your rifle and reacquire a sight picture. Practice this often and it will become second nature. That way, when the day comes that you do have to take a follow-up shot, you won’t be fumbling around with an empty rifle.

Field shooting is a skill that takes time and dedication to develop. Fortunately, shooting is fun, which is probably one of the reasons you became interested in hunting in the first place. Practicing often, under realistic conditions will help you develop the skills necessary to humanely take game. Shooting is easier to learn if you have some instruction. There are many excellent books written on the subject, but the two I most highly recommend are, The Art of The Rifle, by Colonel Jeff Cooper and Shots at Big Game by Craig Boddington. Both of these books expand upon the subjects briefly covered by this article, and provide much more detail about the finer points of technique. No matter how many animals a hunter has taken, they should always strive to become a better marksman.

Shot Placement

Tue, 10 May 2011 12:54:04 -0400

Shot placement, shot placement, shot placement. More important than caliber, bullet weight, velocity, or energy, shot placement is the most important consideration if you seek to quickly and humanely take deer. Proper shot placement will always guarantee quick, clean, one-shot kills. Knowing where to place your shot requires you to know which organs to target, and exactly where those vital organs are within a deer’s body. When shooting deer, the organs we are targeting are the heart and lungs. The heart and lungs are conveniently located together in the forward part of a deer’s chest. By aiming for the heart and lungs, you can place your bullet where it will do the most damage in the largest target, with the largest margin for error.

A perfect broadside presentation. The red dot indicates the ideal aiming point and bullet placement. A bullet anywhere within the blue oval will also result in a quick, clean kill.

The proper area to aim for when shooting a deer is the forward portion of the chest which contains the heart and lungs. The heart and lungs are ideal as they are both the largest target, and the most critical organs. Life cannot be sustained without adequate oxygen available to the brain. This oxygen is provided to the brain by the cardiovascular system, the heart and lungs. When shooting a game animal, the goal is to interrupt the flow of oxygen enriched blood to the brain which in turn causes asphyxiation and death. The most efficient way to produce this asphyxiation is to damage the heart so significantly that it is unable to effectively move blood throughout the body. Placing a bullet through the heart will cause a rapid loss of blood pressure and quick death. So too will a bullet that strikes any of the vasculature around the heart. The ideal shot is through the top of the heart where all of the major veins and arteries that lead to and from the heart connect. A bullet placed here will completely disconnect the heart and cause massive internal hemorrhaging, resulting in nearly immediate death.

A bullet placed through the lungs will have several affects which work together to ensure a quick, clean kill. The lungs are made of soft, fragile tissue that provides very little resistance to a bullet and or bullet fragments. The lungs are literally a maze of blood vessels of various sizes. A shot through the lungs will destroy many of these vessels resulting in massive hemorrhaging within the body cavity and within the lungs themselves. The hemorrhaging that occurs within the lungs will have a secondary effect of preventing oxygen from being transferred to the bloodstream just like in drowning. Thirdly, the actual physical damage to the lungs will decrease their capacity to provide adequate oxygen to the bloodstream. Finally, puncturing the chest cavity causes a disruption in the balance of air pressure between the interior of the chest and the outside air. This disruption will result in inefficient inhalation as the action of the diaphragm which would otherwise draw air into the lungs, will instead be drawing air into the chest cavity surrounding the lungs, further limiting their ability to provide oxygen to the blood stream. A bullet passing through both lungs will always result in a quick kill.

An ideal broadside shot. This position affords the greatest room for error.

When shooting for the heart and lungs, you are also afforded the greatest margin of error. In the chest area, the heart, lungs, shoulder bones, spine, and liver are all closely packed together. Even if your shot is off by a few inches in any direction, it will still have fatal results. A shot that is a few inches forward of your aiming point will pass through the shoulders likely breaking shoulder bones while still hitting the forward part of the lungs and perhaps the heart. A shot that is lower than intended will still strike the bottom portion of the lungs and will likely contact the heart. A shot that goes a little too high will catch the top part of the lungs and or hit the spine. Finally, a shot that is a few inches too far back will get either the rearmost portion of the lungs, or strike the liver. The liver is the body’s blood filter, and as such, it also contains a large amount of vasculature which if damaged will result in massive hemorrhaging. The liver is never the intended target, but it does provide a last chance vital organ before one’s shot is too far back into the stomach and intestines. A shot through the liver will be fatal, but it will take a few minutes longer for the animal to expire than it would with a heart or lung hit.

This buck is strongly quartering-away and really isn’t presenting much of a shot. It would be best to wait for the buck to turn more broadside.

A lung or heart shot that does not contact the shoulder bones or spine will rarely if ever cause the deer to fall in its tracks. Typically, deer shot through the heart and or lungs will sprint for several dozen yards before falling dead mid-stride. This is due to the fact that it takes several seconds to several minutes for the animal to bleed enough that blood pressure drops to fatal levels. Initially, there is enough oxygen already in the blood, muscles, and organs to keep the animal alive and moving for a short period of time. During this time while the residual oxygen is being consumed, an animal can still run and even act as though it hasn’t been injured. Bullets are not lightning bolts, and more often than not, even a hard-hit deer will run at least a few dozen yards before expiring.

The proper point to aim at to hit the heart and lungs on a broadside deer is along the crease that runs behind the shoulder, about one third of the way up from the bottom of the chest. A bullet placed at this point should go through the lungs and take out the top of the heart. It is important to understand that your aiming point will change as the deer’s position changes. Do not become fixated on the point behind the shoulder thinking it is the proper aiming point for all situations. In fact, it is only the proper aiming point when a buck is standing perfectly broadside. An excellent way to practice proper shot placement is to look at photos of live deer either in books or magazines and imagine where you would aim so as to place your shot in the heart/lung area. It requires a little imagination to visualize the bullet’s path through the chest cavity. Rarely in the field will you be presented with a situation where a buck is standing perfectly broadside to you on the same level as you are. Rather, either you or the buck will be higher or lower, and the buck will be either facing slightly toward or away from you. This is when it becomes important to visualize where the vital organs are located and the path your bullet will take. In general, if you are higher than the buck, you will want your bullet to hit higher up on the buck’s side so that the bullet will still go through the heart and lungs on its downward path. If the buck is above you, you will want your bullet to enter the buck’s chest at a lower point so as to go through the vitals on its way up. For a strong quartering-to shot you will need to hold right on the near side shoulder rather than behind it. A good way to line up a quartering to shot is to align your vertical crosshair with the near side leg and then bring your horizontal crosshair one third to one half up the body. This will place your bullet squarely in the vitals.

Quartering-to shot. Note the need to hold on or in front of the near shoulder.

The five basic positions that a buck can be in are, broadside, head on, quartering to, quartering away, and facing away. The broadside shot is the ideal and should be waited for if possible. More likely however, is some degree of quartering away or quartering to. When a deer is quartering away, its body is turned away from you at an angle. In some ways, this can be even better than broadside as it allows the bullet to enter the space between the shoulders from the rear without having to first pass through the shoulder itself. Quartering to is when a deer’s body is angled towards you. Quartering to is an acceptable shot angle, but it requires a little more thinking about where to place your bullet. With quartering to, instead of all the vitals being lined up one behind the other, they are sitting next to each other. For this shot, you will need to place your bullet in the near shoulder. With this shot, there is a little less room for error as the vitals present a smaller target. Also, if your shot is too far over towards the offside shoulder, it is possible to put a bullet through the chest that misses the vitals, but breaks the off side shoulder. A wounded animal can go a long way on three legs if its heart and lungs are intact. The head on shot, where the deer is directly facing you, is similar in that it is an acceptable shot, but it requires more care in bullet placement. In the head on aspect, the heart and lungs present a smaller target with less margin for error on either side. A shot placed in the center of the chest will hit the vitals, but any deviation to the left or right can easily miss the vitals. A shot that is off to either side will create massive injury to the deer without causing a quick death that would come from a hit to the vitals. If an animal is facing directly away from you, then you have no shot. Yes, people will tell you that they have taken this shot with great success. This is not a shot that should be taken. There is simply too much non-vital body mass between the bullet’s point of entry and the heart and lung area. The potential for severe wounding without immediately fatal results is too high for this to be considered an ethical shot.

This head-on shot is less than ideal, but can still be highly effective. Notice the much smaller margin for error. Also note that a bullet placed even a few inches too far to the left or right will severely damage the shoulder without damaging the vitals.

A shot to the brain will produce instantaneous incapacitation and death, but it is far too small of a target to be practical or ethical for deer hunting. A deer’s brain is about the size of a fist and is surrounded by hard bone. Also, there is no margin for error with a brain shot. A shot at the brain only has to be off by a few inches to result in grievous injury instead of death. A buck with a bullet through his jaw will eventually die from dehydration or starvation, but he will cover a lot of country before doing so most likely eluding attempts at follow-up shots. A shot to the spine will also cause immediate incapacitation in the form of paralysis, but often won’t be fatal and will require further follow-up shots. The spine is very small and surrounded by non-critical tissue, which also leaves a small margin for error. The small target size and lack of margin for error make head and spine shots unethical and unadvisable.

As hunters we both love and respect the very animals which we seek to kill. Out of this love and respect comes our desire to kill the animals we hunt as quickly and as painlessly as possible. The way to do so is to place your bullet precisely in the heart and lungs. By doing so, you not only insure your own success, you also show respect for yourself, the animal, and other hunters.

Original article can be seen at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/shot-placement/

Calling Whitetail Deer

Mon, 09 May 2011 12:14:00 -0400

During the rut, bucks are looking for any clue to lead them to the whereabouts of a receptive doe. It doesn’t matter if the doe is already being courted by another buck, as a dominant buck will gladly try to chase off the other suitor. One proven way to attract a dominant buck closer to your stand is to call by either rattling or imitating whitetail vocalizations such as grunts and bleats. Either way, any dominant buck within earshot may just decide to come over and see what is going on.

The whole purpose of rattling is to sound like two bucks fighting over a doe. When a buck hears two other bucks fighting, he will immediately think that they are fighting over an estrous doe. When a buck hears this, he may decide to come towards the sound in the hopes that he might be able to steal the doe while the other bucks are preoccupied with fighting each other. Rattling doesn’t always work, but it may be that last little bit of enticement a buck needs to come within range of your stand. When rattling, don’t overdo it, real buck fights don’t last very long, so rattling for a minute or two every half hour is plenty. You can use either shed antlers, commercially available fake antlers, or what’s called a rattle bag for rattling. Rattle bags may be the easiest as they are simple to use and easy to transport. If you use real antlers, the larger they are, the more sound they will make. Antlers dry out after several years and lose their tone, so try to start off with a relatively fresh pair. A light coating of oil applied to real antlers from time to time will help preserve them. Cutting off brow tines as well as the sharp points can save your hands and make them easier to transport.

Whitetails make a wide variety of vocalizations, but the ones that are most important to the hunter are the bleat, snort, grunt, and wheeze. Of these, the grunt is probably the most often used for calling in bucks. All whitetail deer grunt to one another. When hunting, you can use a grunt to entice the curiosity of any bucks which may be in the area. When a buck hears a grunt he may be likely to come investigate looking for the deer that he thinks made the grunt sound. If a buck is already with a doe however, he will be unlikely to leave her to come see who is grunting. The tone of a grunt can be an indication of a bucks age and size, so it is best not to make your grunts too deep as they may intimidate other bucks by sounding as though they came from a large dominant buck. The bleat is mostly used by does and fawns, and big bucks know that where there is a fawn, a doe can’t be far off. For this reason, bleats work well for calling in bucks that are in search of does. Unlike rattling and grunting, the bleat is non-threatening so it should work well on all bucks regardless of age or size. The wheeze and the snort are sounds that bucks use to intimidate other bucks, and can be used in conjunction with rattling to add an extra degree of intensity and realism. Be aware however, bucks and does also use the snort to warn other deer of danger so you run the risk of spooking deer unnecessarily if you use the snort excessively or at the wrong time.

A whitetail buck pursuing a doe during the rut.

When you do any type of calling, you draw attention to yourself. Even though you sound like a deer, you are making noise that gives away both your presence and location. For this reason, it is important to carefully consider your surroundings and stand set up before calling. If you are in an open area, calling may not be as effective. Any buck responding to your calls will be expecting to see one or more other deer in the location from which he heard the call. If the buck can easily see the area from which he heard the call and no deer are present, he will become highly suspicious. This is why calling can be more effective in areas of heavy cover. If a buck’s sight is obscured by brush, he may be more likely to come over to check things out. A general rule is to never call to deer that are already headed towards you. If everything is working in your favor, and a buck is headed your way, there is no reason to call and potentially ruin the situation. On the other hand, if a buck is moving away or past your stand, you don’t have much to lose by calling to him. There is no guarantee that calling will bring him closer, but it is your only alternative. When a buck decides to investigate a call, he will often circle downwind first to use his nose to check for danger, so be sure to utilize proper scent management when setting up to call. There is a safety issue with calling too, you not only sound like a deer to bucks, you also sound like a deer to other hunters. If you are going to be calling during rifle season, be sure to wear some hunter orange and make yourself recognizable to other hunters.

Calling can be an effective addition to your whitetail hunting strategy. Done properly, and at the right time of year, calling can produce spectacular results. There are a variety of resources available on the subject of calling deer and you will realize success much faster if you educate yourself on the proper sounds and techniques before trying them in the field. Instructional DVDs are an excellent tool for learning to call as they give you a chance to hear how the calls should sound as well as showing common deer reactions. Of course, there is no substitute for first-hand experience, so don’t be afraid to try some calling when you head to the woods this fall.

Original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/calling-whitetail-deer/

The Whitetail Rut

Fri, 06 May 2011 14:49:00 -0400

The term “The Rut” is loosely used to define the period of time in the fall leading up to and including when does are bred by bucks. A variety of other terms like pre-rut and post-rut are used to describe time periods and behaviors that occur both before and after breeding. Rather than get into splitting hairs over terminology, one can more easily understand the rut and associated deer behavior by examining what is going on with the deer physiologically.

All creatures are driven by two simple impulses, the need to survive and the need to reproduce. Pretty much all deer behavior can be attributed to one or both of these basic needs. Even though the motivation for rutting behavior is simple, the behaviors themselves, particularly during the time immediately before breeding, are incredibly nuanced. The rut is a complex ballet influenced by a variety of factors some of which still elude human understanding. Perhaps the biggest influence on the rut is photoperiodism which is the term used to describe the relationship between physiological changes and the number of hours in each day. As the earths orbit around the sun progresses throughout the year, there is a gradual change in the hours of sunlight each day. This change has a direct effect upon the reproductive hormones, testosterone in bucks and estrogen in does. As the hours of sunlight decrease, the level of these sex hormones increase in both bucks and does ultimately causing estrous and ovulation in does while causing bucks to seek out and breed them.

The deer behavior that is referred to as “the rut” is the lead up to actual breeding taking place. This behavior is fairly easy to understand if we consider what exactly bucks are trying to achieve during the rut. All rutting behavior boils down to a buck’s desire to locate and breed a doe while ensuring that he is the only one who does so. It is important to understand the effect that buck-to-doe ratio has on rutting behavior. In a deer population with a poor buck-to-doe ratio, populations where there are several does to every buck, very little rutting activity is likely to take place. That doesn’t mean that breeding doesn’t take place, it just means that the lack of competition between bucks results in very little rubbing, scraping, and fighting. In contrast, areas with a buck-to-doe ratio that is closer to 1:1 will experience heavy rutting activity as bucks vie with one another to breed the available does.

Throughout the late summer and early fall, bucks are preparing for the rut by feeding heavily and establishing dominance. The rut takes a huge caloric toll on a buck’s body, so they prepare for it by bulking up on high calorie foods during the months before the rut. Bucks will seek out highly nutritious foods like apples, corn, acorns, clover, and alfalfa during the lead up to the rut. Bucks also begin to establish dominance by rubbing, scraping and sparring. Rubs are a visual and olfactory signpost made by bucks that say “I’m here, I’m the toughest, and I’m going to breed all the does.” Scrapes are similar signposts that say pretty much the same thing. By rubbing and scraping, a big buck will declare ownership of an area and breeding rights to the does in it. Whether or not other bucks respect a buck’s declaration of dominance is another matter entirely. Before the rut, bucks sort out most of their differences through body language and displays, rarely engaging in actual combat. However, when two equally matched bucks meet and neither will back down, the battle can be violent.

During the rut, bucks battle for breeding rights.

Bucks are always sorting out who is dominant throughout the year, but as testosterone levels rise and days grow shorter in the fall, displays of dominance and the battle for top position begin to increase. As the urge to breed becomes ever more pressing, a buck will expand his range looking for does. As he does so, he will cross over and into the range of other dominant bucks which results in increased rubbing, scraping, and fighting activity. As bucks begin to intrude on one another’s turf, pecking orders that were sorted out earlier in the year become irrelevant.

A buck will continue to travel in search of does until he locates one that is ready to breed and receptive to his advances. Once a dominant buck locates a doe about to come into estrous, he will stay close by and defend her from other bucks until he is successful in breeding her and her estrous cycle ends. At this point, the buck’s near frenzied traveling comes to a halt as he remains with the doe until breeding is complete and he begins ranging again in search of another receptive doe.

Once the rut begins to wind down and does are no longer coming into estrous, bucks’ testosterone levels fall and relatively normal behavior resumes. At this point, bucks will rest and recover from the exertions of the rut while feeding heavily in an attempt to put weight back on before winter.

To take advantage of the rut, a hunter must properly identify the timing of the rut in his area so as to best capitalize on the buck’s behavior. During the lead up to the rut, increased feeding activity makes hunting food sources an effective strategy. Later, when bucks start to move and dominance behaviors begin to kick into high gear, hunting heavily used travel corridors and areas with heavy rubbing and scraping activity becomes highly effective. Also during this time, hunters can use calling techniques such as rattling and grunting to take advantage of dominant bucks’ urge to breed and willingness to fight.

A whitetail buck pursuing a doe during the rut.

The whitetail rut is an incredibly complex seasonal cycle that has become the obsession of many American hunters. Fortunately, there are many dedicated individuals who have made it their life’s work to unravel and understand all the factors affecting the rut. This article is but a brief overview of a topic on which complete books have been written. If you are serious about hunting whitetails and are interested in knowing more about them, I highly recommend you read Charles Alsheimer’s book Strategies for Whitetails. This book is full of beautiful photography, while also containing one of the most complete and understandable descriptions of whitetail behavior from an undisputed expert on the subject.

Sources

Alsheimer, Charles. Strategies for Whitetails. Iola: Krause Publications, 2006. Print

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/the-whitetail-rut/

Deer Habitat

Wed, 04 May 2011 14:21:00 -0400

Knowing where to look for deer is one of the keys to being a successful hunter. To know where to look for deer, you have to know what habitat to look for. Habitat is the environment in which a particular species commonly lives. In hunting, we are typically concerned with what type of food sources and cover to be looking for. Deer like to live in certain areas based upon the availability of water, cover, and their favorite foods. Deer are very adaptable, so anywhere you can find the three necessities, you should be able to find deer.

In general, deer are considered browsers. This means that they will eat a wide variety of plant material that is indigestible to other herbivores such as sheep and cows. A deer’s diet will change throughout the year based upon what foods are available. Deer are very flexible in what plants they are able to eat, but they will typically focus on the highest calorie food that is available. All deer favor agricultural crops with alfalfa fields being a huge draw for both whitetail and mule deer. While mule deer are commonly found in areas containing sage and juniper, these are not preferred foods, but rather survival foods utilized in winter when nothing else is available. New growth, sprouts, and shoots, are often the most tender and nutritious, so try to find areas where harvested crops are re-sprouting, or wild plants are sprouting new green growth in the fall.

Water is a necessity for all living things, so you will have a hard time finding deer in areas without water. While game will always be more concentrated around water sources, deer will travel to and from water as necessary. Deer don’t need to drink as often as humans and they can absorb much of their water from the vegetation they consume. If you are hunting in a very arid region, deer will range several miles from water in search of feed and secure bedding areas. You may want to focus your hunting efforts around water sources in very dry areas as the water will act as a natural draw to all of the deer in the area. If you are hunting in an area where water is abundant, you should focus more on finding food sources and bedding areas.

A mule deer buck’s number one defense is his eyesight. Mule deer can see extremely well, and will pick up a hunter’s movement from very far away. Because of a mule deer’s great eyesight, he prefers to spend his time in more open areas where he has a good view of the surrounding country. That way, he can see any potential threats approaching and escape long before he is in any danger. Mule deer bucks, especially the biggest ones, like to spend the majority of their time on high ridges. They also seem to have a preference for bedding under rimrock cliffs. These cliffs give them a sense of security, knowing that nothing can sneak up on them from behind. During the summer, big mule deer bucks like to live in the high country at or above timberline. They live up high, as it gets them far away from heat, bugs, and people. In the Rockies, mule deer will often inhabit areas that look more suitable for Mt. Goats or Bighorn Sheep during the hot summer months. The bucks will stay at these high elevations until the rut draws them down or the first snows force them down to lower elevations.

Whitetail deer are commonly found in areas of thicker cover. Whereas a mule deer buck will use his eyes to detect danger, a whitetail buck’s number one defense is his nose. To hunt whitetails, you need to find three things: food sources, bedding areas, and transition zones. Whitetails feed on a variety of foods, but some of their favorites are agricultural crops such as corn, alfalfa, and soybeans. Another of the whitetail’s favorite foods is what is called mast. Mast is a term for any food source that is provided by trees. The two favorites of the whitetail are acorns and apples. Once you have located a likely food source, you will need to figure out where the deer can bed nearby. Bedding areas are usually located in thicker cover where the deer can hide from sight and use their acute sense of smell to detect any approaching danger. Transition areas are those areas between food sources and bedding areas through which deer must travel twice a day going to and from the food source. Locating a well used trail in a transition area between a heavily used food source and bedding area is a great way to ambush whitetail deer.

All deer like what is called “edge” habitat. The “edge” is wherever two different types of vegetation meet. The best example is where a forest meets a meadow or open plain. Deer prefer the edge as it allows them access to a variety of food species while also providing the safety of nearby cover. Areas that have been logged or burned in recent years provide lots of edge which deer will take advantage of. Farmland also provides a lot of edge as well as abundant food. Anywhere that there is a mix of vegetation types, provided that the three essentials of food, water, and cover are present, you will be likely to find deer.

Finding deer isn’t always easy, but it can be much more so if you know where to look. By seeking out the right types of habitat, you can increase your chances of finding a good buck. Looking for the three necessities of food, water, and cover will help you to narrow your search to areas that are actually capable of holding deer. When all else fails, sometimes it helps to just ask yourself, “If I were a deer, where would I be?”

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/deer-habitat/

Scouting

Tue, 03 May 2011 13:04:16 -0400

Once you have decided upon a location to go hunting, it is time to go scouting. Scouting is the process of looking for game in the area you intend to hunt, before the opening of hunting season. Scouting before season will provide you with information about the area you plan to hunt and the animals that live there. Scouting can confirm that an area is a good place to hunt or eliminate it as an option all together. Sometimes, areas that look great on a map, or that have a good reputation, aren’t good anymore due to changes in habitat or game populations. Scouting can be anything from looking at maps, making phone calls, researching on the computer, to multi-day camping trips, or afternoon drives with the whole family. Just getting out in the field frequently will build your confidence and make you a better hunter. By doing your homework and scouting before season, you can maximize your opportunities for success once the season opens.

Hunting time is always limited, both by season length and responsibilities at work or home. By doing plenty of scouting before hunting season, you can increase your odds of success on opening day. If you don’t scout before season, then the first few days of your hunting trip will be spent learning everything that you could have learned ahead of time during the summer. You are likely to have better chances for success by spending lots of time scouting and a little time hunting rather than not doing any scouting hoping to get lucky during season.

Quite a bit of scouting can be done during the winter in the comfort of your own home. Perhaps the simplest form of scouting is to look at maps and study what an area looks like. When looking at a map, ask yourself, “If I were a big buck, where would I be?” It sounds silly, but oftentimes it is true, if it looks good to you, it probably looks good to deer too. Keep in mind that all animals share three basic needs, food, water, and cover. If an area is lacking any one of these three items, it probably wont hold much game. Game animals, particularly trophy bucks, don’t like to be around lots of human activity. When looking at a map, look for areas that are isolated from humans by either distance or geographic features such as ridges and canyons. Be aware that more remote areas will be more difficult to access, but that difficulty alone might be what makes them better places to hunt. Try to also look for areas such as high ridges that will provide good lookout points to glass from. Saddles between drainages are often preferred routes for game movement, so pay attention to the locations of saddles between likely looking areas.

A truly amazing tool for scouting is Google Earth. Google Earth is available to download for free. This allows you to get a three dimensional view of the area that you intend to hunt. It takes a little practice to get used to using the controls, but once you do, you can almost “hike” around an area sitting at home in front of your computer. Make sure your computer is fast enough for Google Earth, because a slow computer will make using Google Earth an exercise in frustration. Know that the satellite photos used by Google Earth may be several years old, and may not represent how an area looks currently. The best example of this is with forest fires, if there has been a fire in the last few years, it may not yet show up on Google Earth. Topography can also be a little distorted in Google Earth, so always refer to a topographic map in conjunction with Google Earth.

Google searches and online forums are another way to gain useful information about an area. Just doing a Google search with the name of an area can often turn up photos or comments. Online hunting forums can contain good information as members are often willing to share their past experiences in a certain area. Don’t just limit your search to hunting websites however, as many hiking and backpacking sites contain trip reports by their members, usually with photos. If you’re lucky, the area you are thinking about hunting might be featured. Or, you may find out that it is an extremely popular backpacking destination, and might not be the best place to hunt.

Calling the Wildlife Biologist for the unit you intend to hunt should also be part of your pre-season scouting. Biologists will be able to recommend areas to hunt as well as give an indication of the trophy potential in a certain area. It is a good idea to already have a few spots in mind so that the Biologist can make specific recommendations about your choices. Biologists are in and out of the office quite a bit, and get lots of calls from hunters, so don’t be discouraged if you have to call several times to actually get in touch with the right person.

Talking with others hunters, whether online or in person can also provide good information. Just remember, that other hunters most likely aren’t going to tell you how to find their favorite hunting spot. Also, it is impolite to ask too many questions about where someone has had success in the past. It is acceptable however, to ask general questions about specific areas you have researched on your own.

Evaluating new areas and locating bucks well before season will greatly increase your odds of success.

The very best way to scout is to actually get out in the field and explore the country. By exploring an area, you will be able to observe game movements and patterns while getting to know the lay of the land. Also, you will be able to confirm any hunches you may have had when looking at maps. Seeing a place by hiking or driving around will help you learn far more about it than you could ever learn solely by looking at maps and pictures. When scouting, there are a variety of signs to look for that will tell you about deer activity and numbers in the area. Tracks, trails and droppings are the most obvious signs of deer activity. Always be looking for tracks even when driving on dirt or gravel roads. Note the overall number, general size, and age of tracks. Lots of tracks equal lots of deer. The size of tracks will also tell you generally what size of deer made them. Heavily used trails will show you where the deer are moving to and from. If you have time, follow deer trails as they can lead you to bedding or feeding areas, as well as reveal commonly used travel corridors. Make a note of trails and areas of heavy sign on your map, as they are good spots to set up a stand or ambush during hunting season. Cut banks along roads are good places to spot deer trails as they typically stand out very well. Pay attention to the age of tracks as they can tell you if deer are currently in an area, or haven’t been through in weeks or months. A great place to look for tracks is around ponds, lakes and streams. The mud around water sources takes and holds deer tracks very well. Droppings are also a good indication of deer numbers as lots of droppings means lots of deer. Droppings are also pretty easy to age. If they are dried out and gray, you know that they are old. If they are still moist, you know that they are fresh. Fresh droppings are perhaps the best indication of recent deer activity short of actually seeing deer. Rubs, made by bucks rubbing their antlers on trees, are a great sign of buck activity. It can be difficult to tell if other types of sign were made by bucks or by does, but only bucks make rubs. If you find an area with several rubs, you have found a good place to hunt.

Intelligent scouting and knowledge of your game is what it takes to find trophy bucks like this.

If taking a trophy buck is your goal, then scouting is essential. To take a trophy buck, you either need lots of luck or you need to do lots of homework. Big bucks don’t get big by being dumb, and to hunt them successfully, you need to learn their habits. By finding a big buck and learning his habits before season, you can identify his weaknesses and the times that he is vulnerable. Hunters who consistently take the largest bucks all have one thing in common, scouting. To consistently take trophy deer, those hunters spend far more time scouting than they do hunting during the actual season. Many trophies are taken on the first day of season because the hunter has gotten to know the buck and his habits so well. A way to use scouting to one’s advantage is to find a buck well before season and identify his home area. Then, check up on the buck periodically throughout the summer to keep track of his whereabouts. A few days before season opens, return, locate the buck, and watch him until opening morning when you can hopefully make your final stalk and collect your trophy. If you look closely in many of the popular trophy hunting magazines, you will see that the hunter has pictures that he has taken of his buck during scouting trips. Many even have pictures of the same buck from multiple years. These hunters are putting in the effort scouting to give themselves a major advantage during season. Some hunters take only one or two trophy deer in a lifetime, because they simply get lucky. Other hunters consistently take big bucks year after year. The hunters who take many trophy bucks do so because they scout hard and find those big bucks well before hunting season opens. If you want to harvest a trophy, then you can’t wait until opening day of season to find one, as then it is too late and you will just be relying on luck. Finding big bucks while scouting is no guarantee that you will take one, but it certainly increases your odds. Sometimes it can take years of hunting the same buck for an opportunity to present itself. The more time spent scouting and the more time invested in hunt, the sweeter the prize when it all finally comes together. Taking a deer is really only the culmination of a hunt. All the steps that lead up to the taking of that deer are the actual hunting. Spending time scouting allows you to hunt, without a rifle, all year long.

Be conscious of the fact that the weather will likely be much different during hunting season than it is during your summer scouting. Depending on where you are hunting, weather could completely change the movement patterns that you have identified during the summer. Finding a trophy buck in a high mountain basin doesn’t do you much good if he has moved down to lower elevations by the time hunting season starts.

Scouting isn’t just about looking for game. While you are out scouting, consider the logistics of your upcoming hunt. Depending on where and for how long you are going, pay attention to things such as locations of campgrounds, stores, motels, and gas stations. Scouting trips will allow you to see exactly how long it will take to get to the hunting area, which will help you to decide if you need to stay nearby. Also, think about how long you will be planning to stay. Do you need to bring enough water for the whole trip or can you get resupplied? If the weather is going to be hot during hunting season, see if there is a cooler nearby where you can hang your meat if you are successful. Sometimes, grocery stores in rural areas will allow hunters to hang game in their coolers for a small fee. Finding a place to keep your meat cool may enable you to stay put in the field with your friends rather than having to head for home once you have filled your tag.

Scouting is a great time to get the whole family out in the woods and introduce children to hunting.

Scouting is fun and it is a good reason to get out and explore new areas. Also, scouting is much more relaxed than actual hunting as there is no pressure to want to fill a tag. The weather is typically better as well since most scouting trips occur during the spring and summer. Scouting is a great way to introduce kids and new hunters to the outdoors. A scouting trip can be as simple as taking your family on a hike looking for sign, or an afternoon drive looking for game. By taking children and interested people out scouting, you can expose them to hunting without all the seriousness and possible intimidation that might come with an actual hunting trip. Hunting season doesn’t last very long, but scouting can make it feel like season lasts all year.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/scouting/

Where to go hunting

Fri, 29 Apr 2011 11:57:03 -0400

Choosing a location to hunt requires the hunter to consider a variety of factors. Depending on the options available, one may choose to hunt public or private land, close to home or far away, in the same spot every year or in various hotspots. The number and or quality of deer in a certain area will also affect one’s decision of where to hunt. Finally, tag availability will ultimately determine if it is even feasible to hunt a certain area more than once or twice.

If a hunter knows private landowners, the option to hunt on private land is often a good one. Private land is land owned by an individual or business on which hunter access is controlled or limited. By gaining permission to hunt on private land, one can virtually eliminate competition with other hunters. However, being allowed to hunt on private land is useless if the land in question doesn’t contain deer. Even if a hunter doesn’t personally know landowners, it is possible to gain access to hunt private land simply by asking permission.

Many great hunting opportunities are available on public land. Just because a hunter doesn’t have access to private land, doesn’t limit their chances for success. The biggest difference between public and private land will be the potential for competition with other hunters. In popular areas, the number of hunters entering the field on opening day can cause the deer to move out of an area or change their patterns for the rest of the season. One way to get around competition from others, and make hunting pressure work for you is to find areas where access is limited by the physical terrain. If someone is willing to get up earlier and hunt harder than everyone else, they can quickly leave the competition behind. By working hard to get into rough or remote areas, a hunter may be able to increase their odds of seeing deer. Certainly, they will reduce their likelihood of seeing other hunters.

Whether choosing to hunt private or public land, it is essential that the hunter be sure that it is legal to hunt in the area they are considering. One must not assume that he is in a legal area without checking the hunting regulations and the hunting unit map. Deer tags are only valid for a particular geographic area known as a hunting unit. Unit maps and boundary descriptions are available from Department of Wildlife or Department of Natural Resources. A hunter must pay particularly close attention to the unit boundary descriptions, as the difference between being legal and illegal is as simple as which side of the road one is on.

Another important consideration when picking a hunting area is how far the hunter will have to travel. Time to hunt is often difficult to come by and travel time will eat into the total amount of time available. An area that is just average in terms of deer numbers, but nearby, may produce better results as it can be hunted more often. Or, a really excellent hunting area that is far away may be worth the time commitment necessary to make a multi-day hunt. It will be up to the individual to decide what works best for them and their lifestyle.

When choosing an area to hunt, it is easy to give in to the temptation to always try new areas, chasing the latest and greatest hot spot. While it is necessary to hunt where the deer actually are, constantly changing hunting areas can put a hunter at a distinct disadvantage. Many of the most successful hunters hunt the same areas year after year. Often these hunting areas and the knowledge about them have been handed down from generation to generation. By repeatedly hunting the same areas, it is possible to gain an intimate knowledge of the terrain. Knowing a piece of ground is a huge advantage as it allows one to focus their hunting efforts on places that are known to hold deer. Familiarity with an area also builds confidence and comfort, which result in more time spent in the field. Each return trip will add new knowledge as to the habits of the deer in that area. Continually hunting one area is no guarantee that it will produce, so careful consideration must be taken before committing oneself. Also, habitat and deer populations change over time, so if an area is no longer producing, there is no point in wasting time there.

Before researching an area to hunt, it will be necessary to decide on a goal. Is a trophy buck the desired quarry, or will simply filling a tag be success enough? Trophy deer areas and areas with high total numbers of deer aren’t always the same. Proper genetics and ideal habitat are necessary for the production of trophy bucks therefore, if the goal is to take a record book trophy, one must hunt in a trophy producing area. Conversely, a known trophy producing area may not contain the largest total deer population. If taking a deer for the freezer is the objective, it will be much easier to achieve success by hunting in an area known to have many deer. Just because an area doesn’t have a reputation for producing trophy bucks doesn’t mean one isn’t there. Every hunting season, trophy bucks pop up in unlikely places.

Tag availability will affect one’s decision regarding where to hunt. In the West, most really good hunting areas issue tags through a drawing, so it may only be possible to draw a tag once every several years. The areas where tags are easy to get usually don’t have great hunting and likely receive heavy hunting pressure. For this reason, it is advantageous to become familiar with several hunting areas in various units, so it is possible to hunt more often even if it means hunting in a marginal unit. General season or over-the-counter tags can still produce good results, they will just require more work and careful planning to avoid other hunters and achieve success.

Conversations with a Wildlife Biologist regarding a potential hunting area can help to quickly decide if an area is worth hunting. A Wildlife Biologist will be able to provide vital information about deer numbers, trophy potential, seasonal migration patterns, and likely places to find deer. They will also be able to advise you on the legality of hunting a certain area. When talking with a Biologist, it is helpful to have a map of the area in question so that specific place names and landmarks can be discussed. It is also a good idea to take notes and mark points on the map. Proper research done before selecting an area to hunt can save hunters lots of time and effort. If trophy bucks are the goal, research becomes especially important. The Fish and Wildlife office can also provide harvest statistics, which provide information about deer numbers, trophy potential, and hunting activity.

Seasonal weather variations can also have a huge affect on the decision to hunt an area. High basins that have excellent habitat and many deer during the summer might be snowy wastelands by the time rifle season opens. Always consider when the season will be and what the weather might be like at that time of year before totally committing to an area.

Questions about where to hunt can be a sensitive subject amongst hunters. It can take years to locate and learn a good hunting area, so most hunters are reluctant to share knowledge about their favorite spots. Too many units and regions have seen hunter numbers skyrocket after one picture or magazine article gets published showing a trophy buck from that area. When given advice about where to go hunting, be cautious in sharing that information with others. It is very bad etiquette to receive a tip about an area and then show up with an ever-increasing number of buddies in subsequent years. No matter how much research is done, and how many questions are asked, one will ultimately have to go check out on area for themselves. There is no substitute for actually getting out in the field and seeing things in person. A big part of the fun of hunting is getting to roam around seeking out new opportunities.

Finding a good area to hunt isn’t particularly difficult, it just requires a little time and effort. Doing research in the off-season can help a hunter find an area that will provide him an opportunity to achieve his goals during hunting season. Winter is a great time to do some homework studying maps and gathering info. By researching potential areas in the winter, one can optimize scouting efforts during the summer.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/where-to-go-hunting/

When to Hunt

Thu, 28 Apr 2011 13:20:00 -0400

The choice of when to go hunting is constrained by when hunting season is actually open. Deer season can last anywhere from just a few days to a week or more. In some cases, choosing when to hunt means choosing between first or second season as deer season is often divided up into two or more separate time periods to reduce the total number of hunters in the field at any one time. Dividing up the season also reduces stress on the deer by allowing them a break between seasons. First and second season both have their own advantages and drawbacks. When deciding which season to hunt, you will have to decide which one best suits your hunting style. Rifle seasons are often scheduled so as not to take place during the rut or breeding season. During the rut, bucks are less wary as they seek out does that are ready to breed. Rut crazed bucks are also more easily fooled by calling techniques such as rattling and grunting. Scheduling rifle season during the rut would give rifle hunters undue advantage while disrupting the breeding cycle. Bow hunting seasons are often scheduled during the rut so as to provide bow hunters with more opportunities to fill their tags.

First Season

The first season is just that, the first rifle season of the year. First rifle season usually occurs after archery and muzzleloader season. One of the nice things about first season is that the temperatures are usually warmer and the weather is typically better. While the warmer weather is nice for hunter comfort, it isn’t really an advantage to hunting as winter weather can actually work in a hunter’s favor, if they can tolerate it. Another benefit to first season is that aside from archery season, first season hunters are getting the first opportunity to hunt the deer that year. Having the first opportunity means there are more bucks still in the woods, and their patterns haven’t been disturbed as much by hunting pressure.

One of the disadvantages to first season is the warmer weather which will keep deer bedded down in the shade during the warm part of the day. If first season occurs before fall rains start, the woods will be very dry and noisy. It is extremely difficult to be quiet and sneaky when all of the grass, leaves, and other plant matter on the ground are dried out.

Second Season

The benefit of hunting second season is the likelihood of wet and cold weather. While it may not be the most pleasant time to be out in the elements, hunting is almost always better when it is cooler and either wet or snowy. Once the fall rains start to put moisture back into the woods, it becomes much easier to be quiet while stalking and hiking. Rain and wind also cover up noise that you make, effectively limiting the deer’s ability to hear your approach. Cooler weather also has the effect of keeping the deer up, moving around, and feeding especially before a storm. This provides more opportunities to see game throughout the day. Snow can be a great help to hunting as it makes tracking extremely easy while also muffling sound even more than rain. Enough snow at higher elevations will also push game down and concentrate animals at lower elevation.

Second season may be scheduled closer to or even during the rut. This offers significant advantages as bucks become much less cautious when chasing does and defending territory.

The major drawback to hunting second season is the fact that you are literally last in line. Everyone else has already been in the woods, chasing the deer and disrupting their patterns. By the time second season starts, many bucks have already been taken by other hunters. Also, hunting during colder, wetter weather requires better clothing and more perseverance to stay out in the field rather than being at home on the couch watching football.

In some states the seasons are long enough, weeks or months in some cases, that you have flexibility in deciding when to hunt. If this is the case, you will most likely want to plan your hunt for the period of time right before and during the rut. Or you may decide you prefer to hunt only in warmer weather. The important thing is to try hunting at a few different times of year to see what best suits you and your style of hunting.

Whichever season you decide to hunt, learn how to work the differences to your advantage. Maybe try hunting first season one year and second season another to see which fits you best. Either way, you can’t lose as it’s really all about just getting out there, experiencing nature, and having fun.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/when-to-hunt/

Hunting Deer in Your State

Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:24:00 -0400

Before you decide to start hunting deer in your home state, it is important to know which species of deer are available to hunt. Hunting tactics vary between the different species of deer and it is essential that you match your tactics to the species being pursued. The best place to find out for sure which deer inhabit your state is your Department of Wildlife or Department of Natural Resources. They can not only tell you which species are available, but they can also provide you with the necessary information regarding season dates and bag limits. Generally, if you live in the eastern portion of the U.S. you will be hunting whitetails and if you live in the west you will be hunting mule deer. There are exceptions however especially in the central and western states, so it is always a good idea to double check.

A typical mule deer buck. Note the white facemask, white rump, and thin black-tipped tail.

Mule Deer

The Mule deer’s range extends over the entire western half of the United States. The eastern boundary is always in flux, but it generally reaches from the eastern slope of the Rockies out into the plains states. There are no mule deer east of the Mississippi river. Almost all of the states that contain mule deer also have populations of whitetail, so you will have to do your homework. In general the further west you get, the smaller the whitetail populations. Check your states hunting regulations closely to see if there are separate hunts for whitetail and mule deer or if it is just a general deer hunt.

If mule deer is your state’s primary deer species, you will want to focus on spot-and-stalk and still hunting as these are the hunting methods that typically work the best for mule deer.

Whitetail Deer

When you say “deer”, most people in America assume that you are talking about whitetail deer. Whitetails are the most common deer in America with a population that far outnumbers all other deer species combined. As the whitetail population continues to grow, their range continues to expand westward. If you are going to be hunting anywhere east of the Rocky Mountains, the primary deer species is going to be whitetail. West of the Rockies there are many whitetails too, but this is where their range begins to overlap with that of mule deer. If you are going to be hunting anywhere from the western plains states to the pacific coast you will need to check the regulations carefully for species specific seasons and rules. Alaska and Hawaii are the only states that have no whitetail deer.

If whitetail deer are your main quarry, there are literally dozens of books written on the various methods for hunting whitetails. Check your state regulations for which hunting methods are legal. For example, some states allow baiting while others do not. The primary methods of whitetail hunting are stand and still hunting. Hunting out of tree stands or ground blinds is very effective for whitetails and a good method for new hunters who are beginning to learn how to hunt.

Blacktail Deer

Columbian blacktail deer only live in Washington, Oregon, and Northern California west of the Cascade Mountains. Blacktail look similar to mule deer, but they are different. Sitka blacktails are only found in Alaska. Compared to the other deer species, the range of the blacktails is relatively small. Usually, state regulations don’t make a distinction between blacktail and mule deer as their ranges overlap somewhat. There are some limited whitetail hunts within blacktail range, so be sure to check regulations carefully.

Spot-and-stalk or still hunting are popular blacktail hunting methods, but many whitetail hunting techniques seem to work well for hunting blacktails as well. Rattling and grunting work well for blacktails as does hunting from tree stands and ground blinds.

Axis Buck taken in TX

Hawaii

Hawaii doesn’t have any native deer species, but the islands do have a variety of very good hunting for exotic introduced species. The only deer hunting in Hawaii is for Axis deer. Axis deer were introduced to Hawaii from India in the 1800’s. Axis deer are very beautiful and extremely good eating. They are very striking as the adults have white spots like fawns. The bucks make fantastic trophies as their antlers are very large in relation to their body size. If you live in Hawaii or are planning a trip there, you owe it to yourself to check out the opportunities for Axis deer hunting.

Fortunately for us hunters, any state you live in has some deer hunting available. Just be sure to check your state’s regulations to be sure of which species you will be hunting. Once you know which species you are after, you can tailor your hunting methods to the species accordingly. That way, you won’t study everything you can find about hunting whitetails only to find out your state mostly has mule deer.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/hunting-deer-in-your-state/

Hunting Methods

Mon, 25 Apr 2011 14:52:00 -0400

The hunting method you choose has as much to do with you as it does the game you pursue. Not all hunting methods are suitable for all hunters, neither are all types of hunting suitable for all kinds of terrain. Physical limitations may prevent some hunters from being able to climb into a tree stand, or hike all day in broken country. Other hunters simply don’t have the patience to sit quietly in a stand or blind for hours on end. Thick forests, and areas with lots of cover, don’t lend themselves to spot and stalk hunting like open country does, while wide-open country doesn’t always work for sitting in a blind either. Some cover is so thick; it is simply impossible to still-hunt through it. Many places, there aren’t any trees big enough to put a stand in. First, you will have to match your hunting methods to the area that you are hunting. Then, you have to find a hunting method that not only suits your area, but also fits your personality. By trying a few different methods, you can quickly find out which ones will be successful for you.

Tree Stands
Tree stands were invented for deer hunting and they simply work. Tree stand hunting has some distinct advantages, but it also has drawbacks and limitations. Without a lot of practice, we humans are clumsy and noisy moving through the woods. When we walk through the woods on our two legs, the sound of our walking has a cadence totally different from that of four legged animals, and the deer know the difference. When you move in the woods, you are playing to the deer’s advantage of better hearing and eyesight. Sitting motionless in a tree gives you the advantage, as you won’t be making any noise or any movement, which conceals you from the deer’s heightened senses. Being up off the ground also helps limit the amount of your scent wafting around in your immediate area. Deer can still smell you however, as your scent is still blowing down wind. Getting up high also puts you up above the deer’s direct line of sight, but don’t think for a minute that deer don’t look up in trees. Any movement will attract their eyes, but by being up high you do have a little more freedom to move around. Sitting in a tree stand gives you a huge advantage when it comes time to shoot. Usually, you will be shooting at deer that are totally relaxed and have no idea that you are present. This affords you time to wait for the best shot angle, as well as time to get steady. Also, you will probably have a good view of the deer as it runs off after the shot. You may even be able to see it fall, making recovery that much easier.

One difficulty to tree stand hunting is simply getting the stand and yourself up in the tree. Not everyone is strong enough or physically fit enough to get up and down from a tree stand safely, so be honest with yourself regarding your own abilities. Another drawback is the fact that your stand placement has to be pretty precise. If you put your stand up in the wrong spot you may not see any deer, or they may be out of range. Once you are up there, it is almost impossible to get down quietly enough to stalk deer that are nearby but out of range. Also be aware of the fact that up in a tree, you are totally exposed to the elements. The only shelter in a tree stand is the clothes you are wearing, so dress accordingly. Being still your body creates much less heat so you will have to dress far more warmly than if you will be moving around all day. Wearing lots of warm clothes will change how your rifle fits, so be sure to go shooting with your hunting outfit on to get used to it before you’re trying to shoot the buck of a lifetime. Tree stand hunting requires lots of patience, as you have to remain alert enough to pay attention to what is going on around you for several hours at a time. It can get pretty boring sitting in a tree for several hours when deer aren’t moving. Some people just can’t sit still for that long. Typically however, there is always something going on and you will be amazed at the variety of wildlife you see going about there lives thinking no one is watching. If you change your perspective, you can be constantly entertained while sitting in a tree stand.

All but a few specialized tree stands are single person stands, so if you want to hunt with children or others, you will need to put multiple stands close together, which can be tricky. While tree stands themselves aren’t dangerous, just like firearms, improper and unsafe use can result in injury or death. Probably the most common injuries to hunters are those sustained from falling out of tree stands. Following basic safety rules and always wearing a safety harness easily prevents tree stand accidents.

Ground Blinds

A ground blind in Texas. Blinds like this are often used in conjunction with bait.

Hunting from ground blinds has many of the same advantages as hunting from a tree stand. Sitting in a ground blind still limits the amount of noise and movement you make without requiring you to climb up in a tree. Sitting on the ground makes your scent more of an issue, but many of the tent-like commercial ground blinds actually contain much of your scent. Being in a blind screens much of your movement, so you can move around and fidget a little more than if you were in a tree. However, being on the ground puts you in a deer’s line of sight, so they are much more likely to spot you if you aren’t well hidden. Also, deer will be more likely to notice a ground blind that suddenly appears in an area that they frequently use, whereas they are unlikely to notice a tree stand. For this reason, you will usually want to set up your blind several days before you plan to hunt to let the deer get used to its presence. Ground blinds don’t have to be store-bought; they can be easily built or improvised from material you find in the field. Even just sitting in amongst the branches of a blown down tree or some logs can serve as an effective ground blind. An advantage of ground blinds, particularly commercially available ones is that they afford you lots of shelter as you are basically sitting in a tent. This makes the ground blind a great option when you know that the weather may be wet or cold. Ground blinds also have the advantage of being able to hold more than one person making them a great way to hunt with children or new hunters. Another advantage to ground blinds is that it is possible to slip out quietly to stalk an animal that is out of range.

Still-Hunting
Still-hunting is probably one of the most common methods of hunting, but it is also commonly done wrong. Still-hunting is the process of slowly moving through deer country looking for deer. To do be done properly, one must move extremely slowly, as in feet per minute, scanning around looking for deer. To be successful, you have to see the deer before they see, hear, or smell you, which is an extremely difficult thing to do, as the deer’s senses are so much better than ours. Many hunters think they are still-hunting when in reality they are pretty much just traipsing around the woods spooking everything within hearing range. Still-hunting is hard, as it requires infinite patience to slowly move through an area continually looking at the same country trying to detect deer. Still-hunting gives up almost all advantage to the deer as by moving around on the ground, making noise, you are doing all the things that a deer is perfectly designed to detect. The only way to gain the upper hand with still-hunting is to move like a ghost and use your binoculars to try to see deer before they see you. There are hunters who still-hunt successfully, but it takes many years of practice to develop the skills necessary to do so. For those who can’t sit in a stand without getting bored, still-hunting allows you to actively look for deer rather than sit and wait. Still-hunting is perfect for the times when you don’t have the time or the desire to set up a stand, or you can’t see into a particular patch of cover from afar, but you think it may hold deer.

Driven Hunts
A driven hunt is when one or more hunters or “beaters” as they are traditionally called, moves through an area or patch of cover purposefully trying to drive out any deer that may be hiding there. The beaters are trying to drive the deer towards a group of hunters who spread out at points ahead of the beaters so that they can intercept any deer that are trying to flee. Driving game is one of the most basic forms of hunting that is employed by almost all predators that hunt in groups. Probably the most spectacular example of driving game occurred when the Native Americans would drive whole herds of buffalo over cliffs. Driven hunts can be very effective and are a traditional form of hunting in parts of Europe and the United States. Driven hunts recognize the fact that humans are noisy and our presence does spook deer. In a driven hunt, you take advantage of this fact and use it to flush deer out of hiding. Extreme care must be taken when conducting a driven hunt, as there are many people in relatively close proximity to one another, which can make picking a safe shooting angle difficult. Also, the deer will be unpredictable as they flee and may just as easily run out the side or past the beaters rather than run toward the blockers. Since the deer are running, most shots will be difficult, as they have to be taken with the deer on the run. In this situation, the deer are already spooked and on high alert, so shot opportunities will be quick and few. Driven hunts are usually employed in areas of heavy cover where game is known to hide, but it would be impossible to approach undetected. Driving game doesn’t usually work very well in open areas as the game has sufficient time and plenty of escape routes to elude the hunters. Another way to conduct a drive that does work in open country is for hunters to take up positions overlooking likely escape routes along ridges while another hunter simply makes his presence obvious by slowly walking through an area in the open. When a drive is conducted in this fashion, the deer will simply get up and sneak away slowly rather than spooking and running away. One advantage to driven hunts is that they can be exciting as the action is fast and you never know what critters may come running out of the cover.

Hunters glassing during a Spot-and-Stalk spring bear hunt.

Spot and Stalk
Spot and stalk hunting is the process of locating game from afar and then stalking within shooting range. Spot and stalk is probably the most common method of trophy hunting particularly in the west and in open country. Trophy hunters prefer spot and stalk as it allows them to evaluate and approximate a buck’s size before deciding to pursue him. Spot and stalk requires the use of high-powered binoculars and spotting scopes to locate game from as far as several miles away. By locating deer from far away, you have the advantage of time. Time to both evaluate the buck’s trophy potential and plan how to best approach him. When hunting by spot and stalk, the day is spent at one or more vantage points glassing (looking for game through optics) until a deer is located. Spot and stalk provides the advantage of being able to look over a large area of country without disturbing the game by moving around making noise and leaving scent. It also allows you to cover a large area with your eyes while sitting still in one spot. This is especially important in mountainous terrain where one can easily burn themselves out in a few days by hiking around too much. A popular adage advises, “Let your glass do the walking.” This means, rather than traipse around, find a good vantage point and sit still watching for game with your optics. Spot and stalk is only effective in areas where the cover is open enough to allow you to see for a distance. Areas of thick cover don’t lend themselves to hunting by spot and stalk. Spot and stalk also requires patience as you must sit still and continually look over the same areas again and again. It can be fun however as you do get to see a lot of country and often see a wide variety of birds and animals. Also, unlike a stand or blind, you can move around and stretch from time to time. Just be sure not to let your hunting partners sleep while you do all the glassing. Many hunters consider stalking to be the purest form of hunting as you have to be pretty stealthy in order to sneak within range. When stalking a buck, you are allowing him the chance to use all of his senses to detect your presence before you get close enough for a shot. Stalking isn’t easy, but it is very exciting, as you have to be very sneaky while at the same time moving quickly enough to get in range before the deer move away.

Calling
Calling can be effective if you are hunting either whitetail deer or blacktail deer during the rut. Typical deer calls imitate bucks grunting, snorting, and wheezing. Other deer calls imitate the bleating sounds made by does when they are in estrus, meaning they are ready to be bred. These sounds all imitate rutting activity, which is a powerful attractant to bucks. Bucks are very territorial, and large, dominant bucks seek to breed all of the does in their area. When these bucks hear sounds, which they think are coming from other bucks following does, they will sometimes come investigate in order to drive off the buck they think they hear. Calling is typically used when a hunter is on stand either in a tree or on the ground. Calling will produce mixed results, but it is one more tool available to hunters during the rut.

Rattling is another form of calling, where a hunter will make try to imitate the sounds of clashing antlers made by two bucks fighting over a doe. The sounds of rattling makes a buck think that there are two other bucks fighting over a doe. Hearing this, the buck may attempt to come and either steal the doe or join in the fight. Like the other forms of calling, rattling will produce mixed results, but it can be effective during the rut.

Baiting
Where legal, baiting can be very effective at attracting deer. Baiting refers to the practice of placing bait, typically food such as corn or minerals like salt, out where deer will find it and eat it. Bating is used in conjunction with a tree stand or blind to attract the deer within range. Baiting is very effective as once deer learn that food or minerals can be found in a particular location, they will return there often. Typically, corn, grain, acorns, or a blend of sweet tasting, high calorie foods is used as deer will preferentially seek them out over other food crops. Minerals, like those fed to cattle, are also highly attractant to deer as they are often lacking in a deer’s natural diet. There are a variety of commercially available bait products formulated specifically for attracting deer, but plain corn or salt work well too. Be sure to check your local law as baiting deer is legal in some states, but illegal in others.

Hunting with Dogs
In many of the Southern states, it is legal to hunt deer with dogs. Deer hunting with dogs is an American tradition that predates the founding of our nation. Hunting with dogs is very similar to a driven hunt except for the fact that the beaters are dogs rather than humans. Various hound dogs are used to hunt deer as they trail them by scent. Hound hunting is typically done in areas where the cover is so thick as to be virtually impenetrable. Dogs are released into an area where deer are thought to be in the hope that the dogs will drive the deer towards waiting hunters. Shots at deer being driven by dogs through thick cover are typically taken at close range, so hound hunters commonly use shotguns with buckshot for deer hunting. Hound hunting is a very specialized form of hunting as it takes years to train good dogs, and they require care and feeding year round. Most hunters don’t get into this type of hunting simply because of the investment involved. For the same reason, dedicated hound hunters are usually interested in little else.

Picking the hunting method that works for you involves a little trial and error. Except for specialized hunting methods, like hound hunting, it is pretty simple to try out different methods until you find what suits you. Don’t feel like you have to hunt a certain way just because that is the way someone else does it. The most important factor for success is actually being out in the field. Pick a hunting method that you enjoy, and are willing to do from dawn to dusk. If you can’t stand to sit still in a tree for hours on end, don’t, get good at still-hunting or spot and stalk. If you have a hard time moving quietly, try stand hunting. Whatever you do, just be safe and make it fun, because what is the point if it isn’t enjoyable? In a typical day of hunting you will likely use more than one method. You may start the morning on a lookout glassing for a spot and stalk, then still hunt through a bedding area during the day, and then sit in an improvised ground blind for the evening. A big part of being a successful hunter is being able to adapt to whatever conditions you encounter. Being flexible and having more than one skill set in your repertoire will allow you to seamlessly change hunting styles as the game and terrain dictate.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/03/hunting-methods/

Basic Hunting Gear Part III (Gear Specific to Hunting)

Thu, 21 Apr 2011 16:56:00 -0400

This is the equipment that makes the difference between going hunting and going for a hike. Adding this hunting specific equipment to the clothing and survival gear from part I and II will complete the gear ensemble that you need to be an effective and efficient hunter.

Rifle

You wouldn’t be hunting if you didn’t have a way to harvest game, so it is essential that you bring your rifle and ammunition. It doesn’t happen often, but you would be surprised at the number of hunters who have set off on opening morning only to discover that in all the excitement they forgot their rifle and or ammunition. Along with your rifle you should carry several rounds of spare ammunition. You should also consider carrying some sort of cleaning rod so that you can clear your rifle’s bore if it becomes clogged with mud, snow or debris. You must never fire your rifle in an attempt to clear a clogged bore! Doing so will most assuredly result in the destruction of your firearm as well as causing you and those around you severe bodily harm! Several manufacturers make either segmented or cable type cleaning rods and kits that are designed to be carried in the field. If you are going to be hunting in inclement weather, place a strip of electrician’s tape over your muzzle. It will not negatively affect accuracy, but it will prevent snow, rain, pine needles, and other debris from falling into your barrel. While not absolutely necessary, I believe scope caps are an excellent accessory to add to your hunting rifle. They aren’t expensive and can easily save your hunt by insuring that your scope lenses are clean and clear when it comes time to take a shot.

Binoculars

Nikon Rangefinder and Swarovski 8x30 SLC Binoculars

While I would never tell someone that they can’t go hunting without binoculars, if you really want to be serious about hunting, you need a good pair. Carrying and using binoculars will allow you to spot far more game than you can without them. Binoculars will also allow you to spot game from a distance before they are aware of your presence. With a good pair of binoculars and a good vantage point, you can effectively cover and “hunt” far more country than you can possibly cover on foot in a day. Just as with boots, try several different pairs and buy the absolute very best that you can afford. Fortunately with optics, you do get what you pay for and price is actually a really good indication of quality. Cheap binoculars are cheap and good binoculars are expensive. It is up to you to decide how much you are willing to spend. Buying quality binoculars is one of the few times that you will actually be able to improve your hunting skill simply by buying something. Quality binoculars have much better light transmission and image clarity. This means that you will be able to effectively glass game both earlier and later in the day when the light isn’t as bright. Image clarity allows you to spot game by noticing small details like an ear or antler sticking out from behind a bush. Also, clearer images result in less eye strain. Eye strain occurs when your eye is constantly trying to focus the image it sees through the binoculars. With lesser quality binoculars, the image will be less crisp and your eye will keep trying to adjust which will quickly lead to eye strain. Quality binoculars have more precise and robust focusing mechanisms which also help to improve image clarity and prevent eye strain. When your eyes get tired, you won’t want to look through your binoculars to glass anymore, and you can’t hunt what you can’t spot. Really bad binoculars will give you eye strain bad enough to cause a headache. Keep in mind that you will never wear out a good pair of binoculars and most likely your kids will be able to use them, so they really are a one time purchase. If you have to, go without for a few seasons until you can save up for a good pair.

Knife

A selection of good skinning knives ranging from expensive to inexpensive. Clockwise from lower left, Carter custom Skinner, Ruana drop point, Shrade skinner, Mora Clipper, Victorinox Boning knife, and Hewlett Jewelstick Diamond sharpener.

Eventually you will be successful in taking a deer and will need to skin and field dress it. While hunting, I like to carry multiple knives for different uses. I prefer to carry one knife for general cutting chores, while keeping one or two knives in my pack specifically for skinning and cutting up game. By carrying multiple knives, I keep my game processing knives clean and razor sharp. A skinning knife does not need to be big, and actually, smaller is better. Any knife with a blade larger than five inches is going to be too big and unwieldy. I believe a blade length between 2.5 and 4.5 inches is ideal. Blade shape is also an important consideration when shopping for a skinning knife. Look for something with some curve or “belly” in the blade as this allows a much more comfortable and natural cutting stroke. Trying to skin with a blade that is too straight will be difficult and frustrating. Blade steel, the type of steel the knife is made out of, is another important thing to consider when choosing a good skinning knife. Premium blade steels are much tougher and will hold an edge much longer than less expensive steels. No matter what steel your knife is made of, be sure to keep it razor sharp. A sharp knife makes the job much easier and much safer. If you find yourself having to push hard, your knife is too dull and needs to be sharpened. A quality knife will hold an edge through skinning at least one deer if not several. Don’t be afraid to spend enough money to get a good knife, as it will last you a lifetime. While good knives can be had for as little as fifty dollars, don’t be surprised to spend between one and two hundred dollars on a good skinning knife.

For quartering and butchering big game, I prefer to use another specialized knife called a boning knife. To transport a deer or other big game animal out of the woods without horses or a vehicle, you will need to break it down into pieces small enough to be carried in a backpack. To do this, you will need to remove large cuts of meat from the underlying bones, as well as splitting joints. A boning knife is the type of knife that professional meat cutters use to separate large cuts of meat from bone. A boning knife looks like a small fillet knife and you probably already have one in the knife block in your kitchen. The thin flexible blade makes it really easy to separate joints and remove large cuts of meat from your deer. Fortunately, professional grade boning knives are actually inexpensive, only costing around fifteen dollars. My favorite is a five inch, curved, boning knife with a large, textured plastic handle. The only drawback is that these knives don’t come with sheaths, so you will have to rig something up to carry it in your pack safely. I like to use the plastic edge guards that are sold in kitchen stores and large knife catalogs.

Camera

Always carry a camera and be sure to take lots of pictures. It is fun to look at pictures and remember the good times that you had on your hunts. Don’t just wait until someone has taken an animal and then only bring home trophy photos. Take many pictures throughout your hunt including photos of camp and the area you are hunting in. Memories are easily forgotten and it is fun to look at pictures and remember difficult hikes, less than ideal campsites, or miserable weather conditions. Just be sure that you have fresh batteries and plenty of room on your memory card before you head out.

Tag and License

You must always carry your tag and hunting license with you in the field while hunting. Some states even require that your license be displayed openly on your back. Consult your state’s hunting regulations to be sure that you are in compliance with the law. Typically, the law requires you to validate your tag by punching out the date immediately upon recovering your deer. If you forget your tag and license at home or in the truck, you could potentially get yourself into a lot of unnecessary trouble.

Optics Cleaning

High-end optics such as scopes and binoculars have special coatings on the lenses that can easily be damaged by improper cleaning procedures. Using your t-shirt to clean the lenses of your scope or binoculars can quickly and permanently ruin your investment. Lenses should only be cleaned with a soft cloth specifically made for lens cleaning. Any little bits of dust or debris must be carefully removed before wiping the lenses or else they will act like sand paper and scratch the exterior lens coating. The best tool for removing dust and debris is a soft brush designed for optics cleaning. I carry a Leupold Lenspen and a small soft lens cleaning cloth in my pack at all times. I try to keep the lenses of my optics protected so that I rarely have to clean them, but I like to have the tools to clean them in the field if needed. Be sure to read the instructions that came with your optics and follow only those cleaning procedures recommended by the manufacturer.

Flagging tape

Flagging tape comes in a variety of fluorescent colors and is extremely useful for marking trails. Flagging tape is inexpensive and comes on a small roll that fits easily in your backpack. One roll should last for a very long time. Perhaps the most common use is to mark points along a blood trail when recovering game. If you are having difficulty following tracks or a blood trail, you can use a strip of flagging tape to mark the last track or drop of blood while you look for the next. That way, if you have trouble finding more sign, you can always return to the last known point and start over. Flagging tape can also be used to mark points where you need to turn off of a main trail to make your way to a stand or lookout point that you have located. Finally, it is a good idea to tie a few strips of flagging tape to the antlers of your deer while you are packing out the head to potentially let other hunters know that they are seeing another hunter with a deer head on his back, not a live buck. If you do use flagging tape to mark trails, take it down and take it with you when your hunt is over.

Shooting sticks

Whenever you are shooting at game, you should try to use a rest. A steady rest will greatly improve the precision of your shots no matter how good you are. It is possible to use a variety of improvised rests such as your backpack, a tree branch, rock, or log, but a good pair of shooting sticks can greatly simplify matters. Logs and rocks don’t always pop up right where you need them when taking a shot at an animal, and with shooting sticks you can set up a good rest just about anywhere you choose. I’m not talking about the full height shooting sticks used in Africa for standing shots, but if you like them and are willing to carry them around with you, then by all means use them. For most deer hunting you will be perfectly well served by a set of collapsible aluminum shooting sticks designed for shooting while sitting or kneeling. They don’t weigh much, collapse down to an easily packable size and they can make a world of difference in how well you shoot in the field. Don’t wait until the moment of truth before you try shooting off of sticks. Take them to the range with you and practice using them in a variety of positions before you go hunting.

Game Bags

If you want to be successful, you need to prepare for success. That means you should carry your field dressing tools with you at all times. One of the most important pieces of equipment for proper meat care is game bags. Heat, dirt and flies are your worst enemies when it comes to caring for your meat. Quality came bags will allow your meat to cool while protecting it from bugs and dirt. Good cotton game bags are inexpensive and can be reused year to year after washing. They come in different sizes designed for either quarters or a whole deer. I like to carry six, quarter size game bags in my pack whenever I am hunting. With that many bags I can easily hang up all my meat and get it cooled down right away. A spare bag comes in really handy too for protecting the head and cape of your trophy if you intend to have it mounted. Don’t get yourself into trouble at home, but old cotton pillowcases make pretty good game bags.

Gear List

Backpack
Boots
Rifle
Ammunition
Clothing
Rain Gear
Binoculars
Extra insulating layer
Garbage bag
Map and Compass
Knife or Knives
Game Bags
Hunting License and Tags
Emergency blanket
First Aid kit
Matches and Fire starter
Headlamp and or Flashlight
Optics cleaning cloth
Rifle Cleaning kit
Pen with tape
Flagging tape
Cell phone
GPS
Water
Lunch
Extra food
Camera
Shooting sticks
Hand sanitizer
Toilet paper
Rope

At first glance, this may seem like a lot of gear to carry around all day, but by being properly prepared, you will be able to be a better hunter. Being comfortable, confident and motivated will keep you out in the field longer, which will ultimately lead to more success. As you gain experience as a hunter, you will begin to decide what gear you think is necessary and what isn’t. Some hunters carry hardly anything at all. Other hunters carry way too much. Based upon my years of experience, this basic set of gear will help you to be safe and comfortable in the field. No matter what your experience level is, it is a good feeling knowing that you have the necessary gear to stay warm, dry and comfortable even if you have to unexpectedly spend the night in the field.

The original article can be found at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/04/basic-hunting-gear-part-iii-gear-specific-to-hunting/

Basic Hunting Gear Part II (Survival Gear)

Wed, 20 Apr 2011 18:45:00 -0400

Having some basic survival equipment with you at all times can not only keep you comfortable in the woods, it can keep you alive. It is highly unlikely that you would become so lost that you could never be found, but it is possible that you could become lost or injured and have to survive for several days and nights before you are rescued. If the weather gets cold enough and you are unable to find or create shelter, even one night out in the elements could be fatal. With the right equipment, mental attitude, and know-how you can survive plenty long enough to be found and rescued. The gear listed below is the gear you should have with you any time you go into the woods. Even if you are just going on a short hike during the summer, take your backpack and some basic gear. As you get used to it, soon you will begin to feel naked without it. Though you will likely never need it, carrying some basic survival gear will give you the comfort and confidence in the wilderness to stay out longer and explore further in search of big bucks. It may not be your own life that you end up saving; as you may be the first person to stumble on someone who was unprepared is now in need of your help.

Backpack

A selection of daypacks from Camelbak, Dana Design, and Eberlestock.

A quality backpack is an important piece of gear as it makes it possible to carry all of your other equipment. A good backpack need not be expensive, although they certainly can be. The basic requirements for a hunting pack are that it is large enough to comfortably hold all of your gear and comfortable enough that you can wear it all day. You definitely need something better than your typical backpack book bag that is only designed for carrying books to school. I like to have a backpack sized a little larger than what I really need so that it isn’t overstuffed with all my gear and I have extra room to carry clothing if I need to take some off. I also like to use a pack that is large enough that I can carry out at least a quarter of meat and the head and cape of my deer. That way, I save an extra trip in and out of the woods during the meat hauling process. The most important aspects of a good pack are that it has a comfortable, sturdy suspension (shoulder straps and waist belt) and that it fit you well. Just like with boots, all backpacks are slightly different and it is important to find one that fits you. As with clothes, don’t feel like you have to have a camouflage “hunting” backpack. While there are many good specialized packs designed specifically for hunting, two of my favorite hunting packs were designed for hiking and backpacking. If you already have a good pack for hiking, by all means use it until you decide you want something else. When selecting a backpack, know that they are designed to only carry a certain amount of weight. Don’t buy an ultra-lightweight backpack and expect to be able to comfortably carry fifty pounds of meat, head, and cape. Many hunting packs available today include some provision for carrying your rifle strapped to your pack. I really like this feature and find it to be a near necessity when hunting steep or rough country.

Map and Compass

A topo map and quality compass should be your constant companions.

If you are going to be spending time in the woods, you need to learn how to navigate with a compass and topographic map. Even if you carry and use a G.P.S. you still need to learn to use a map and compass. Batteries die and electronics fail, maps and compasses do not. To effectively navigate through the woods, you don’t have to become a master at orienteering, you simply need to know how to use a compass to orient your map, keep track of which direction you are traveling, and to know which direction you need to go to get back to your vehicle or camp. I suggest carrying two compasses, keeping one safely stored in your pack so if you were to damage your primary compass, you always have a back up. Even good compasses are relatively inexpensive, so there is no reason not to have at least one. They aren’t magic however, you must use them consistently to keep track of where you are.

Once you have decided on an area to hunt or scout, go to a map store, sporting goods store, or Forest Service office and purchase a USGS topographic map of the area. The most detailed maps are the 1:24,000-scale or 7.5 minute quadrangle topographic maps. These maps use contour lines to represent changes in elevation and the shape of the land. A map will not only help you to keep track of where you are, it will give you clues about where to look for deer as well. A topographic map shows you things like roads for access, campgrounds, water sources, etc. With experience, you will be able to look at a topographic map and create an accurate mental image of what an area looks like without ever actually going there.

Matches and Tinder

A variety of firestarting tools and tinder. Clockwise from lower left: Candle, waterproof case with strike-anywhere matches, WetFire tinder block, StrikeForce fire starter, Butane lighter, and pitch wood.

It is absolutely necessary that you carry with you a means for starting a fire when you are out hunting. Cold and Hypothermia are a hunter’s biggest threat and being able to start a fire and get warm can very easily save your life. Even just being able to start a small fire and get warm during your lunch break can keep you out in the field all day rather than heading for the truck early and missing half a day of hunting. By far the simplest and most reliable fire starting method is a waterproof container full of strike-anywhere matches. Be sure to get strike-anywhere matches, as the strike-on-box matches are pretty much useless in the field. Even with strike-anywhere matches, I like to have a small strip of the striking surface off of a box of matches in the waterproof container with the matches. With that, I know I will always have a rough, dry surface to strike my matches on. I believe that it is a good idea to carry two sets of matches, one on your person and another in your pack. That way, if you somehow become separated from your pack, you still have the ability to start a fire. Lighters can be pretty handy too especially if you are going to be lighting stoves often, just don’t trust one to be your only source of fire as they do break and don’t always work very well in extreme cold or at altitude.

If you didn’t grow up in a house with a woodstove, or you just haven’t started many fires, it is a good idea to practice and learn how to under controlled conditions. Starting a fire isn’t particularly difficult, but it does require a little preparation and technique that is best learned before your fingers are numb, your hands are shaking and you really need to get warm right now. Just be sure that if you start a fire you put it out. All the way out, where you can’t feel any heat coming out of the ashes when you hold your hand over them. The last thing we need is for hunters to be blamed for starting forest fires. Along those same lines, be aware of the conditions around you before starting a fire. If it is early fall and it has been hot and dry all summer, try another way to get warm before starting a fire that could easily get away from you. If there is snow on the ground, it has been raining, or it is currently raining or snowing, you are pretty safe starting a small fire to warm yourself up. Always ask yourself before striking a match, “If I start this fire, can I keep it under control and put it out?”

You can save yourself a lot of time and hassle if you carry some sort of tinder or fire starter with your matches. Tinder can be store bought or homemade. Some of the best fire starters are, candles, dryer lint, pitch wood, cotton balls dipped in petroleum jelly, and paper. Personally, I carry pitch wood, which is the sap, or pitch-laden wood that comes from the stumps of trees. You don’t have to go very far in the woods to find old dried out grey tree stumps that have either fallen or been pushed over. Break off some of the roots that are sticking out and look at the wood. It will be very hard, yellow to bright orange in color and will smell strongly like sap. When lit this wood burns very hot almost like it were made out of gasoline. I also really like the Wet Fire tinder blocks from Ultimate Survival Technologies. These little, white chemical blocks come individually wrapped in foil and are easily ignited. These blocks actually burn longer when wet, plus I like the fact that they are small, individually wrapped, and ready to go.

Toilet paper

The primary use for this should be readily apparent to you, but it can come in handy for other things too. As long as you keep it dry, toilet paper makes good tinder for starting fires. Also, it can be used for flagging a blood trail if you forgot to bring flagging tape. If you are hunting with a group and you are the only one who remembered to bring toilet paper, and someone needs it, they will be your new friend for life. Whatever you use it for, just be sure you don’t leave it laying around the woods for other people to find.

I also like to carry the little travel packs of handy wipes or diaper wipes as they work really well for cleaning up your hands after field dressing.

Hand Sanitizer

Call me a wimp or a germaphobe, but I like to carry a little travel size bottle of hand sanitizer in my backpack. After going to the bathroom or field dressing an animal, I like to be able to clean my hands. The same guys that tease you for carrying it will be asking to use some after they field dress their animal. Because it is mostly pure alcohol, it burns pretty well and can also serve as a back up fire starter. Hand sanitizer is also great at removing tree sap from your hands.

Garbage Bag

Everyone should carry a large, black, heavy-duty garbage bag in his or her pack. When folded up, a garbage bag takes up hardly any space and weighs very little. A garbage bag can have literally dozens of uses. Look for the thickest ones you can find, they are usually labeled with something like “contractor grade.” By poking holes for your head and arms, you can make a really good emergency poncho or windbreaker. You can sit on it to keep yourself dry if the ground is wet. You can use it to line your backpack before putting meat inside so your pack doesn’t get bloody. If you put meat in a garbage bag or any plastic bag, only do so temporarily as the plastic can’t breathe and it won’t let your meat cool properly, ruining it. Another trick is to take all your extra clothes and gear out of your pack, stick it in the trash bag and then either stash it with your meat or carry it in your hand so that you can haul out more meat in your backpack on the first trip. You can also make an emergency coat or sleeping bag out of a garbage bag by putting it on or getting in it and filling up the remaining space with dry leaves, grass, pine needles or some other dry insulating material. The number of uses you can come up with for a trash bag are virtually limitless. If you really want to be creative, you can even use it to carry trash out of the woods.

A few essentials: Camelbak, collapsible water bottle, flagging tape, hand sanitizer, pen with duct tape, headlamp, and a large garbage bag.

Water

I like water and I drink a lot of it, so I always start out with at least a three-liter hydration bladder full. Staying hydrated is very important, as it will keep you warmer, more mentally sharp, and more motivated throughout the day. Proper hydration also helps to prevent altitude sickness if you are hunting a high elevation. Untreated water isn’t safe to drink no matter how remote or clean the source appears to be, so you should always plan on carrying enough to get you through the day. I really like hydration bladders as you will drink more water more often and stay better hydrated if you don’t have to take your pack off every time you want a sip of water. Also, water bottles will slosh and make noise in your pack if they aren’t totally full or totally empty, whereas a bladder will not.

Lunch and Snack

By carrying a lunch and some extra snacks with you in your backpack, you can spend a lot more time in the field, which will result in many more opportunities to fill your tag. There is some strange law of hunting that virtually guarantees you will see game as soon as you sit down, relax, and break out your lunch or a snack. It probably has more to do with sitting still and being relatively quiet than mystical laws of nature, but often when you stop for a break you will spot game. Be sure to carry some food that you have tried before and actually like. If you are carrying the newest wonder food, and find out you don’t like it and won’t eat it, it won’t do you much good. I like to have a variety of things to snack on throughout the day rather than trying to live off of the same bag of trail mix all hunt long. Hunting requires a lot of energy and the only way to replenish that energy is with calories. Hunting season isn’t the time to go on a diet. Eat a lot and eat often, it will keep you more focused and more motivated throughout the day. Always carry a little more food than you think you need. I think it is a good idea to keep a few extra energy bars in your pack so that if you end up staying out late or having to spend the night, you at least will have something to eat. Carry a little bit of candy with you as well. Hard candy lasts forever and can’t melt or be squished. You will be amazed at the energy boost you can get during a tough hike from a single piece of candy.

Cell Phone

Part of the reason to go hunting is to get away from your cell phone, e-mail, and daily grind. I do however think it is a good idea to carry your phone, as you will be surprised at how often you get service in remote areas. Keep your phone turned off, so that you can enjoy your hunt, but keep it with you to use as an emergency lifeline should you get into trouble. Many peoples’ lives have been saved because they were able to call for help by using their cell phone. Also remember that text messages can often go through even when service isn’t good enough for a voice conversation. A call home will relieve a lot of worry if you end up having to stay out in the field later than you had planned.

First Aid kit

A versatile, light-weight trauma and first-aid kit suitable for a wide range of injuries.

Everyone should carry a small first aid kit in his or her backpack at all times. A major weakness that I see in the first aid kits that most people carry is that they usually contain little more than a few Band-Aids, some ointment and maybe some tape. Most small first aid kits are designed to deal with the small wounds and injuries that are inconvenient, but far from life threatening. These kits would be completely useless when dealing with a massive trauma such as a gunshot, laceration, impalement, or broken bone. While I still carry a few Band-Aids, I believe hunters should also carry first aid kits designed to deal with the types of traumatic injuries that can be immediately life threatening if not taken care of properly. I don’t expect nor do I encourage everyone to carry a full size, combat ready trauma kit, but you can carry a few items that don’t weigh much, don’t take up much room, and could potentially save your life or the life of a friend. I believe that the greatest danger faced by hunters after hypothermia and getting lost is the risk of severe bleeding due to traumatic injury. Therefore, I have designed my kit to enable me to attempt to control and prevent blood loss. In my trauma kit I have, 2 or 3 sterile 5”x9” gauze pads, 2 triangular bandages, 2 rolls of compression bandage, a roll of athletic tape, and an emergency blanket. With these few items I should be able to at least control bleeding, bandage wounds and splint (with the use of improvised splints such as branches) injured extremities. Along with this trauma kit, I carry a small generic first aid kit containing an assortment of Band-Aids, alcohol swabs and antibacterial ointment. I also add several Ibuprofen tablets, and some Benadryl quick dissolve strips to my first aid kit. The Ibuprofen is nice to have for anything from a headache, to sore joints, to an injury. The Benadryl can be very useful if you or someone else happen to have a reaction to poisonous plants such as poison oak, or if someone has a reaction to insect bites. Hunting is not dangerous, and the most dangerous part of any hunt is the drive to the hunting area, but you will likely be far from a hospital and far from emergency care. Wherever you are in the woods, it will take help more time to get there than it took you to get there, so behave accordingly. As you move through the woods, be aware of the fact that you really don’t want to get injured. Even something as seemingly minor as a sprained ankle or knee can slow you down enough to force you to spend a night out. Hunting is not the time for running around, jumping off of rocks and logs. Be aware of your surroundings and what you are doing and you will most likely never get injured.

Everyone, whether they hunt or not, should learn at least some basic first aid. You don’t need to be a Paramedic, like most of my hunting partners, but you should at least know how to bandage wounds and splint extremities. If you have children, especially boys, I guarantee that you will use your skills at least once if not many times. First aid classes are usually available through the Red Cross or your local community college. At the very minimum, you should see if your library has some first aid books for you to read. Don’t be afraid to go hunting thinking you are going to be injured in some freak accident because chances are, you won’t be. Just be safe and know that help isn’t right around the corner like it is at home.

Emergency Blanket

Either in your first aid kit, or in your pack, you should always carry a space or emergency blanket. Kept folded up in their original package, an emergency blanket is very small and will even fit in your pants pocket. If you get lost or have to spend the night out, an emergency blanket will provide you with a good bit of warmth and shelter. They are also shiny and very visible should you be lost and need to make yourself seen by searchers in the air.

Headlamp and Flashlight

Always carry two sources of light and routinely replace batteries before hunting season.

If you are serious about filling your tag, then you should be walking into your hunting area before first light. Much of the game movement, and the best hunting, occurs during the first and last hours of light. To take advantage of these prime hunting times, you will need a flashlight or headlamp to see your way into and out of the woods. I greatly prefer a headlamp as it allows me to see what I am doing without holding a flashlight in one of my hands. In general, most headlamps are also smaller and lighter than all but the smallest flashlights. A headlamp is a near necessity if you are lucky enough to fill your tag at last light and need to field dress your deer in the dark. I always carry two sources of light just to be sure I don’t end up having to “feel” my way out of the woods at night. Routinely put fresh batteries in your lights as well for the same reason.

GPS

A Global Positioning System or GPS can be a wonderful tool for hunting. Just like a map and compass, a GPS is only useful if you know how to use it properly and consistently. Even the most expensive GPS doesn’t know where your truck is, if you didn’t turn it on and mark a waypoint before setting out. Even with a GPS, you should still carry a map and compass as backup. As I’ve said before, electronics fail and batteries die, but a map and compass always work, so learn to use both and you shouldn’t get lost. While they are great for finding your way back out of a hunting area, perhaps their best use is for marking important points that you find such as good stand locations, game trails, natural funnels, water sources, and areas of heavy sign. Specific points can be difficult to find in heavy cover, and a GPS allows you to return to an exact point over and over. A GPS isn’t a necessity for hunting, but if you have one and know how to use it, it can be a useful tool.

Rope

I like to carry about twenty to thirty feet of lightweight rope in my pack. Rope can be really useful in a survival situation, but where it most commonly gets used is to hang up meat after field dressing your game. My favorite is parachute cord or five-fifty cord as it is often referred too. It is called five-fifty cord because it has a strength rating of five hundred and fifty pounds. Now that doesn’t mean you should be using it for rappelling off of cliffs, but it does mean it is plenty strong for hanging your deer meat up in a tree. Also, it is lightweight, stays soft, and holds knots very well. Parachute cord can typically be found at sporting goods stores or an Army surplus type store.

Pen with Tape

I didn’t invent this trick, and I don’t know who did, but it is a good one. Simply take a ballpoint pen and wrap a few feet of duct tape around it. A pen is always a good thing to have, and with a little duct tape you can make a variety of repairs to your gear in the field. A little strip of tape also works really well for attaching your tag to the antlers of your buck. My favorite tape is Gorilla brand duct tape, because it is super strong and sticks to anything. You can also put a little electrician’s tape around the pen for protecting your rifle’s muzzle in bad weather.

The original article can be seen at http://www.nosler.com/articles/2011/04/04/basic-hunting-gear-part-ii-survival-gear/